One of the more attractive, economical, and centrally located Oaxaca bed-and-breakfasts is homey but exclusive Casa Luz María (1002 Morelos, tel. 951/516-2378, f_fagoaga [at] hotmail [dot] com, luzmago30 [at] hotmail [dot] com). Since it’s her home, the owner chooses her clients carefully. If you qualify, your reward will be one of her several comfortable, immaculate (albeit a bit worn around the edges) modern rooms and apartments, all built around a pair of flowery, sunny interior patios. Some of the accommodations have private baths, others are shared; with hot water and fans, but no phone, TV, or parking and no credit cards accepted. Rentals include a hearty breakfast with coffee, tea, fruit, bread, eggs, and sweet rolls. The owner assured me that her prices, which she declined to state, are both flexible and moderate.

For another worthy budget option check out the Casa los Arquitos (Rufino Tamayo 818, tel. 951/132-4975, ventas [at] casalosarquitos [dot] com, www.casalosarquitos.com, $40–65), where a welcoming Mexican couple have converted their modest home into an inviting small hotel tucked into the heart of the charming north-end Los Arquitos neighborhood. Their five immaculate rooms with bath, simply but attractively decorated, offer a choice of either one single bed, two single beds, or one king-sized bed with full kitchenette, including refrigerator, stove, microwave oven, dishes and utensils, and a private patio to boot. Amenities include in-house Internet and a generous continental breakfast with choice of savory organic coffee, hot chocolate, or tea, and breads, yogurt, granola, and fresh seasonal fruit.

Go a mile north of the zócalo, two blocks uphill past Avenida Niños Héroes (Highway 190) and your reward will be Casa María (Belasario Domínguez 208, Colonia Reforma, tel./fax 951/515-1202, maria [at] oaxacalive [dot] com, www.oaxacalive.com/maria.htm, rooms $36 s, $46 d, suites $80), project of welcoming owner María Luz Díaz. Her 18-room abode basks behind a flowery, spacious green garden, perfect for reading and relaxing. Past the inviting terrace and dining/living area, the rooms, several upstairs, are clean, modern, and comfortably furnished. A separate kitchen is available for guest use. Breakfast is hearty American-style, but served only between 8 and 9 a.m. María usually has many guests, who often head out in the morning but linger on the terrace and in the living room during the evenings, comparing their experiences of the day over coffee and tea. Bungalows (kitchenette apartments) run about $70 d, $500/month, breakfast not included. A large family apartment for five costs about $115. Prices rise about 25 percent during festivals and holidays. All with private shower-baths and fans; some parking in her four-car garage. Massage and traditional temazcal treatments are available at an extra cost.