The traditional Juárez market occupies the one-block square that begins just one block south and one block west of the zócalo. Stroll around for fun and perhaps a bargain in the honeycomb of traditional leather, textile, and clothing stalls. Although there are many exceptions, most shops are open by 8 a.m. and close by 6 p.m.

While at the market, be sure to step to the southwest corner of 20 de Noviembre and Rayón for a history lesson in art inside the Templo y Ex-Convento de San Juan de Dios, which stands on the site of Oaxaca’s oldest church. The present structure, completed in 1703, replaced the former earthquake- damaged 1535 town cathedral, which itself replaced the original 1521 adobe structure.

Big paintings lining the nave walls depict landmarks in Oaxaca’s religious history. Inside the front door, to the left, see Bishop las Casas protecting his native charges against soldiers and settlers.

Farther inside is an oil painting of the Santa Cruz de Huatulco; next comes Oaxaca’s first mass, on the banks of the Río Atoyac, on November 25, 1521, and after that, the baptism of Cosijoeza, the last Zapotec king.

Also, you’ll find a series of oils showing the discovery, persecution, revolt, and reacceptance of the so-called “Idolators of Los Cajonos,” whom Spaniards discovered worshipping their native gods on September 14, 1700.