Another of Ejutla’s surprises is the Hotel 6 (Km 61.5 Carretera Oaxaca–Puerto Ángel, tel. 951/573-0350, $20 s or d in one bed, $40 d or t in two beds), “probably the best in North America,” claims the owner-operator, friendly former Olympic wrestler and civil engineer Mario E. Corres.

A sign, which strikingly resembles Motel 6 signs all over the United States and Canada, draws you into the parking lot. You know you’re in for something unique when you pull up to a portaled, old hacienda as big as a baseball field, with a jungle on one side, complete with tree house and a swinging rope walkway.

Inside, you’ll find everything completely in order, from three spreading courtyards, a pool, and two big function rooms to a huge living room, dining room, and spotless, shining, old-fashioned kitchen. The climax to all this is Señor Corres’s museum, which includes his family tree and which he gladly explains to visitors (in Spanish, of course).

The 14 rooms, which after everything else seem an afterthought, are plain but clean. Some are more inviting than others. Take a look at two or three, small and large, before choosing. If the weather’s warm, you’ll need a fan, which some rooms have. All this plus parking, hot-water shower-baths, and an elegantly homey dining room.

You’ll encounter most of Ejutla’s services during your stroll around town—most of the available stores and institutions are right on or near the plaza. At the southwest plaza corner is the town’s best place to eat, Comedor Mary (8 a.m.–7 p.m., $2–6), where a squad of hardworking teenage girls serve hearty country food.