San Pedro Amusgos
San Pedro Amusgos celebrations are among the most popular regional fiestas. On June 29, the day of San Pedro, people participate in religious processions, and costumed participants dressed as Moors and Christians, bulls, jaguars, and mules dance before crowds of men in traditional whites and women in beautiful heirloom huipiles.
Later, on the first Sunday of October, folks crowd into town to enjoy the traditional processions, dances, and sweet treats of the fiesta of the Virgen de la Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary).
Even if you miss the festivals, San Pedro Amusgos is worth a visit to buy huipiles alone. Three or four shops sell them along the main street through town. Look for the sign of Trajes Regionales Elia (tel. 954/582-8697, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. daily), the little store run by sprightly Elia Guzmán when she’s not in Oaxaca City. Besides dozens of beautiful embroidered garments, she stocks a few Amusgo books and offers friendly words of advice and local information.
© Bruce Whipperman from Moon Oaxaca, 5th edition