Under $25

Heading around the curve of the bay to the Playa Panteón neighborhood, you’ll find one of Puerto Ángel’s old standby budget lodgings, Casa de Huéspedes Capy (tel./fax 958/584-3240, $10 s, $15 d in one bed, $18 d, $22 t in two beds), perched on the bay-view hillside by the road fork to Zipolite. Rooms, stacked in two stories, with views toward Playa Panteón, are basic but clean with fans and cool-water private baths.

Good family management is the Capy’s strong suit. This shows in the shady view restaurant, Arcely, where good food in a friendly atmosphere encourages guests to linger, reading or talking, for hours. The family also watches the community TV at night; if it bothers you, ask them to turn it down.

$25–50

Downhill stands Puerto Ángel’s only truly beachfront lodging, Hotel Cordelia (right on Playa Panteón, tel. 958/584-3109, fax 958/582-3231, azul_profundomx [at] hotmail [dot] com, $35 s or d, $65 t or q). The Cordelia’s seven rooms, most with bay views, are sparely but pleasingly decorated with rustic whitewashed walls, attractive native floor tiles, natural wood furniture, and artful tile touches in the modern-standard baths.

No phones, no TV, just the murmur of the gentle Playa Panteón surf to lull you to sleep. With fans and good restaurant downstairs.

© Bruce Whipperman from Moon Oaxaca, 5th edition