Nostrana (1401 SE Morrison St., 503/234-2427, 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–10 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–11 p.m. Fri., 5–11 p.m. Sat., 5–10 p.m. Sun., $18–24, pizza $9–15) is the latest outpost of Cathy Whims, who led the much-revered Genoa kitchen for many years. Her new enterprise takes her a ways from Italian high cuisine: Nostrana is part wood-fired pizza joint and part rustic Italian home-cooking restaurant. Order one of the excellent pizzas—perhaps prosciutto and arugula—and augment it with a selection of wonderful salads, soups, house-cured meats, and wood-oven cooked meats. The menu changes nightly to ensure that everything here is absolutely fresh and seasonal.

3 Doors Down (1429 SE 37th Ave., 503/236-6886, 5–9:30 p.m. Tues.–Thurs., 5–10 p.m. Fri.–Sat., 4–9 p.m. Sun., $17–26), as its name implies, is a few doors away from Hawthorne Boulevard. Dishes are Italian influenced but inspired by the Northwest’s bounty. The most requested dish is vodka penne with spicy Italian sausage and plum tomato cream sauce.