Many people passing through the Roseburg area might quickly dismiss it as a rural backwater. A closer look, however, reveals many more interesting layers beneath the mill-town veneer. While about half of the folks here rely on the woods as a workplace, and this fact is reflected in the no-nonsense cafés and businesses meeting their needs, growing pockets of refinement are found in between the pickup trucks and lumber mills.

An award-winning museum, Oregon’s only drive-through zoo, and wineries setting down roots nearby are a few examples of culture in the hinterland.

The Douglas County Farmers Market (541/672-9380, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Sat. mid-Apr.–Oct.) takes place in the parking lot of Roseburg Valley Mall on Stewart Parkway at Garden Valley Boulevard.

The true allure of Roseburg is not really in town but in the surrounding countryside. The beautiful North Umpqua River to the east offers rafting, camping, hiking, and fishing. In addition to catching trout, salmon, and bass, anglers come from all over to enjoy one of the world’s last rivers with a native run of summer steelhead.

Numerous waterfalls along the river and the frothy white water make the Native American word Umpqua (“thundering water”) an appropriate name.

Getting to Roseburg

Buses to and from the Greyhound bus depot (835 SE Stephens St., 541/673-5326) connect Roseburg with other cities along the I-5 corridor.

Roseburg Sunshine Taxi Express (541/672-2888) can chauffeur you around the city.