Soposo Rainforest Adventures (cell 6631-2222, www.soposo.com) is run by a former Peace Corps worker, Demecia, and her Naso husband, Celestino. Their operation seems professional and well organized. It’s based in Soposo, which is on the Río Teribe about five minutes downriver from Wekso.

They have built traditional-style huts for guests with double beds, mosquito nets, porches, and hammocks. There is no electricity; lanterns are used at night. Stays include guided hikes and, depending on the length of stay, visits to Sieyik and other communities. Trips include round-trip transportation from Changuinola, accommodations, guided hikes, “cultural activities” and all meals.

A one-night stay is US$130 per person. For those under time pressure, they also offer single-day trips (9 a.m.–4:30 p.m.) to Soposo, for US$90 per person, that feature a traditional lunch and a hike. A two-night stay (US$350 pp) includes a visit to Sieyik and an optional homestay with a Naso family. A five-night stay (US$500 pp) allows time for longer hikes and homestays.

An older ecotourism project is run by a Naso nonprofit called ODESEN (cell 6569-3869, www.bocas.com/odesen.htm). It’s a Spanish acronym that translates to Organization for Naso Sustainable Ecotourism Development. Assisted by Conservation International, the group uses proceeds from tourist visits to help the community. ODESEN currently houses most guests at the Wekso camp, but this may be changing; contact the group for updates.

Visits can be arranged directly through ODESEN or through tour operators who work with the group. Visitors who book through ODESEN are charged cafeteria-style according to the services they need. A couple should count on paying about US$125 per person for round-trip transportation between El Silencio and Wekso, three meals, lodging, guides, and a hike. No one should come all this way without visiting at least one of the upriver communities, though, so add US$70 per person for a trip upriver to Sieyik, the site of the Naso capital and royal residence.

There is no electricity at any of the facilities used by either ODESEN or Soposo; candles and flashlights provide the only illumination at night. Traditional meals are generally simple and can include such dishes as palmito and plosón salad. Palmito is heart of palm. Plosón is a fern that contains a tiny amount of cyanide—it’s quite tasty.

Day trips are definitely worthwhile, but it’d be a shame to make this much effort and not spend at least a night; it really deepens the experience.

It rains year-round up the Río Teribe, but less so in January–March and August–October. March is the driest month. Bring rain gear and a light jacket regardless of when you come. It can get cooler and breezy during the “summer” (January–March). It’s also a good idea to bring bottled water or water-purification tablets or filters.