Finca La Suiza is on the right about 40 kilometers up the Fortuna Road from Chiriquí. Those with time to spare should consider taking a hike in its private reserve; the trails are good and well marked.

The Continental Divide is at kilometer marker 60; flora and fauna quickly change as one heads down the Caribbean slope. The road also leads over the impressive Represa Fortuna (Fortuna Dam), whose hydroelectric plant supplies more than 30 percent of Panama’s power. The road goes across the top and offers lovely views of the reservoir and the hills that ring it.

For a break, pull off the road at the bridge near kilometer marker 67. On the west side just past the bridge is a gorge. Walk down the little trail by the side of the road; it’s not marked, but it’s near a sign that says “Celestine.” Do not open this gate and go up the steps; that’s private property. The trail is to the left of it, starting at the guard rail.

The trail leads down to a little quebrada (brook) with a swimming hole and waterfall, El Suspiro, in a narrow box canyon. The waterfall is at least 30 meters high and is absolutely stunning and pristine. Those so inclined can slip behind the waterfall. Even though this is close to the road, as usual travelers shouldn’t wander around solo. Even at low water you’ll get wet; wear swim trunks and reef sandals, and bring plastic bags for the cameras.

There’s not a scrap of trash anywhere; please keep it that way. This is probably not the safest place to be during a heavy rainstorm.