San Jerónimo de Tunán

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San Jerónimo de Tunán, 13 kilometers north of Huancayo, is known for silver filigree. It is fascinating to watch Jesús Suarez Vasquez and his sister Nelly Vasquez (Arequipa 496, three blocks east of Plaza de Armas) make their delicate silver jewelry. A necklace that sells for US$16 in Lima can be bought here for US$6.

Wednesday mornings are a good day to visit San Jerónimo, to catch the weekly market. There are many stores down the road and, on the main square, a beautiful 17th-century church with a baroque altar.

Other lesser crafts centers in the valley include San Augustin de Cajas, known for its wool hats; Molinos, near Jauja, which makes wood carvings including masks and stools decorated with animal shapes; and Aco, a center of ceramics.

The best time to visit Aco is during its early Friday morning market, when ceramics wholesalers from all over the country snatch up pots and other goods for cheap.

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