Café la Terraza (Jr. Sucre 1106, tel. 043/30-1226, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$2–4) serves flavorful espresso, omeletes, sandwiches, and main courses. It also makes box lunches for day hikers and has a great selection of homemade ice creams. Flavors include lúcuma, chocolate, and manjar blanco.

Café de Rat (Jr. Sucre 1266, tel. 043/39-1642, 8 a.m.–10 a.m. and 4–9 p.m.daily) is the most charming spot in Caraz, upstairs from Pony’s Expeditions, serving breakfast, salads, pasta, pizzas and fondue upon request. The café has a cozy atmosphere, with a balcony from which there is a great view of the Plaza de Armas. Additionally there is WiFi and a book swap. Ask for crayons and sign the wall with an original drawing if you have the skills.

The best restaurant is Airea Café Bar (Parque San Martin 103, tel. 043/39-1130, US$6) inside Los Pinos Lodge. The tiny restaurant, packed with tables, serves breakfast and dinner. Andean cereals and fruit, trout with sachatomate (Andean tomato) sauce, and tofu are all on the menu.

For classic Peruvian food there’s Restaurant Punta Grande (Daniel Villar 595, tel. 043/39-2101, 8 a.m.–7 p.m. daily, US$3). This pleasant garden restaurant serves fresh trout roasted over an open fire, grilled meats, and good corn tamales.

Stop at Chicken Progreso (Daniel Villar 326, US$3) for juicy pollo a la brasa, french fries, and a cold soft drink.