Ary Quepay (Jerusalén 502, tel. 054/20-4583, www.aryquepay.com, 11 a.m.–11 p.m., US$5–13) is a good traditional Peruvian food restaurant in the historic center, despite being very touristy. The food is good and you have a varied menu with Arequipeñ cuisine as well as dishes from other regions in Peru. Live folkloric music starts 6:30 p.m.
You can find a more modern take on the same foods at Coca K’intu (San Francisco 302-A, tel. 054/22-4360, 11 a.m.–midnight daily, US$7–9). This restaurant starts its meals with a marinated-olive amuse-bouche. Follow this with a pisco sour and a tender alpaca steak with passionfruit sauce, and you will have tried one of their best specialities. The best table in the house is tucked into a window nook, and one of its chairs is a big armchair.
© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition