Cafés, Bakeries, and Ice Cream

For an affordable lunch menú, head to Iskay Cafeteria & Artensía (Pedro de Osma 106, tel. 01/247-2102, 9 a.m.–midnight daily, US$6–8). Pastas, sandwiches, and piqueos are the specialties.

Stop by Café Cultural Restaurante (San Martín 15-A, tel. 01/247-5131, 9 a.m.–2 a.m., US$4–8), in a 1920s English train car, for a drink, but skip the food.

The best café is on the open-air patio of Dédalo, the artisan shop.

Ceviche

Canta Rana (Génova 101, tel. 01/247-7274, 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Tues.–Sat., 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Sun., US$8–11), a no-frills lunch place, with loads of history, serves up great cebiche and a range of seafood.

The unassuming Costa Sur (Chorrillos 180, tel. 01/252-0150, 11:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Tues.–Sun., US$8–10), in Chorrillos, has fried shrimp and conchas a la parmesana worth a taxi ride.

Peruvian

With bow tie–clad waiters and an old piano, Las Mesitas (Grau 341, tel. 01/477-4199, noon–1 a.m. daily, US$5–7) has an old-timey feel. For those on a budget, this is a great place to sample Peruvian food, including humitas, tamales, sopa criolla, ocopa arequipeña, and lomo saltado.

Lunch buffets are popular in Lima, and Barranco seems to have an especially high per capita number of restaurants serving up just that. In order of preference, we recommend: Puro Perú (República de Panamá 258, tel. 01/477-0111, 12:30–5 p.m. daily, US$15) and the oceanside Rustica (Playa Barranco, tel. 01/9403-4679, 12:30 p.m.–midnight daily, US$15).

For a steak and red wine fix, Parrillados El Hornero (Malecón Grau 983, tel. 01/251-8109, noon–midnight Mon.–Sat., noon–6 p.m. Sun., US$8–10), in Chorrillos, is a must. The second-floor tables have impressive ocean views, and the grilled provolone and Argentine baby beef will do for your palate what it won’t do for your cholesterol.

Fine Dining

Amor Amar (Jirón Garcia y García 175, tel. 01/651-1111, US$10–25) is the newest and smartest restaurant in town, and it happens to be in Barranco. Luis Alberto Sacilotto, the renowned chef of La Gloria, and the owners of Pescados Capitales decided to open this new culinary (ad)venture. The food is incredibly good, having on the menu cebiches, tiraditos, and grilled octopus, among other seafood specialties. Other options include risottos, duck, lamb, and beef. Cocktails are well done and the varied wine list is pretty impressive.

Pizza

The best pizzas are at the new Antica Trattoria (San Martín 201, tel. 01/247-3443, 12:30 p.m.–midnight daily, US$7–10), a charming Italian eatery with stucco walls, exposed beams, and rustic furniture. The lasagna here is excellent, as is the array of homemade pastas.

Markets

The large modern supermarket Metro (Grau 513, 9 a.m.–10:30 p.m. daily) is within walking distance from all Barranco hotels.

© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition