Most of the eating options—except for the spit-roasted chicken at Mar Pacífico 495—revolve around seafood. Restaurant Curazao (San Bartolo 231, tel. 01/430-7787, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, US$3–5) is known for its Peruvian seafood plates, but can also make Chilean dishes upon request.<
There’s a line of restaurants down Mar Pacífico. The best of these include El Arador del Mar (Mar Pacífico, tel. 01/430-8215, US$3–5), with a good seafood lunch menu for US$3.
But the next-door El Rincón de Chelulo (Mar Pacífico s/n, tel. 01/430-7170) wins out for a greater variety of fish and shellfish, unbelievable friendly service, and a larger US$3 lunch menu. These restaurants are in front of the plaza where the town’s market opens up every morning. This square also holds a few ice cream shops and pizzerias, open in summer only.
© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition