In 1857, after a formal invitation from the Peruvian government, a group of German and Austrian immigrants from Prussia and Tyrol hacked their way into a remote jungle enclave northeast of the Chanchamayo Valley. They survived despite the odds, were largely forgotten, and over time developed a charming, and somewhat bizarre, Bavarian village in the Amazon that they christened Pozuzo.

Where else in the Amazon can you find three-story Tyrolean homes with carved wooden rafters, blonde damsels who speak German, and huge wheels of cheese?

The blue-eyed villagers have built comfortable, Alpine guesthouses that charge as little as US$10 pp, including breakfast. There are also caves, ox-driven sugarcane mills known as trapiches, waterfalls, and German dancing contests during holidays.

Oxapampa, founded by Pozuzo settlers in 1891, is a two-hour 80 kilometer journey from Chanchamayo on a partly paved, partly rough dirt road. Pozuzo is another four hours (80 kilometers) farther on spectacular, bumpy roads that cross several streams.

The best lodging in Oxapampa is Albergue Turístico Böttger (Mariscal Castilla, block 6, tel. 063/46-2377, www.oxapampaonline.com/bottger, US$21 s, US$36 d with breakfast), with six beautiful wooden-made rooms, hot water, laundry service, a small TV lounge, and a big backyard. The owner, Doris Böttger, is a very warm host and extremely resourceful woman, with information about what to see and what to do around the area.

Check www.oxapampaonline.com, in Spanish, which has good information about Oxapampa and Pozuzo, including other lodgings, restaurants, and places to visit.