Órganos’s hippest lodging is Las Pirámides Surf Point (Km 1153, Panamericana Norte, tel. 073/969-968-166, www.vivamancora.com/laspiramides). The owners are Peruvian national champion surfer César Aspíllaga and his wife, María Eugenia Vargas. Together with their daughter, Mohana, the couple has built a series of bamboo, pyramid-shaped bungalows high above the ocean on Punta Veleros.

The bungalows feature an upstairs love nest for two with views of the stars. Downstairs there are beds for three more, along with kitchen and funky sitting area. There is no hot water, no TV, and precious little electricity, but these things aren’t missed in the spacious, rustic surroundings.

Each bungalow costs US$20 pp though prices vary. Rooms, with interesting adobe bathrooms and cloth curtains, are also available for US$15. Food is served only during high season on a thatched patio in front of the ocean.

Perhaps the best part is that César, who is a competitive surfer on the world circuit, offers lessons for US$10 per hour plus all-day board rentals for US$5. Of his famous point break, César says, “It’s like Hawaii because it’s a good reef base with a good tube that sucks air.”

Hard-core surfers also congregate around Bungalows Playa Blanca (Playa Punta Velero, tel. 073/25-7487, www.bungalowsplayablanca.com, US$10 s, US$15 d without breakfast, US$22 s, US$25 d with breakfast). Here, stone bungalows surround a central patio restaurant. The hammocks, wicker furniture, and beachfront view are charming, but the faded furniture and sometimes loud restaurant music make this a less formal option.

Next door is a good option, especially for families: La Perla (Playa Punta Velero, tel. 073/25-7389, www.elaperla.com.pe, US$30 pp with pension, half price for children 3–10, free for children under 3). The hotel, constructed by a Russian family, has Slavic touches—bright red, Baltic coast paint, paintings of windswept Russian landscapes, and a patio full of lacy hammocks. The rooms are immaculately clean, with sparkling tile floors, cable TV, and perfectly made beds in fair-sized rooms.

The owners are very affable, but they speak more Spanish and German than they do English.

If these are full, there are a few other lodging options, with more on the way, just north of Punta Veleros. Check the website www.vivamancora.com/english/dondedor.htm for other lodges and places to stay.