When in need of an empanada, swing by Baguettino (Piura 400, 6 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily, US$1), where you can enjoy the flaky meat-and-raisin–stuffed pastry while peering onto the activity of Piura Street.
Milano Pub, Café, Bar (Huáscar 514, 5:30 p.m.–3 a.m. daily) opens with a menu of snacks, light meals, and desserts, but by 10 p.m. when the discoteca is in swing, dancers forgo food for beer or cocktails.
Los Gustitos (Bolívar 149, tel. 072/52-3198, 6:30 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$3.50) and Restaurant Latino (Bolívar 163, tel. 072/52-3198, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily US$3.50) are recommended for conchas negras—black clams with an aphrodisiac kick that local fishermen harvest from among the roots in the mangrove swamps.
For a finer dining experience and an international menu, try El Manglar (San Martín 275, tel. 072/52-3991, 7 a.m.–11:30 p.m. daily, US$4.50) inside the Hotel Costa del Sol. Among its 200 dishes, the restaurant offers ceviches, fajitas, pizzas, grilled meats, and an excellent fixed menu for US$5.50.
The shelves of Mini Market “Nelvi” (Piura 501, 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon.–Sat, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and 6–10 p.m. Sun.) are well stocked with everything from wine to cold cuts to cookies.
© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition