Museo del Cemi (Carr. 144, km 9.3, 787/828-1241 or 787/828-4094, Wed.–Fri. 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 10 a.m.–3 p.m., free) makes quite a statement for itself as you drive along Carretera 144. Like a throwback to kitschy mid-century American architecture in which buildings were made to reflect their purpose (e.g., a hot-dog stand shaped like a hot dog), Museo del Cemi is shaped like a huge cemi—a triangular artifact with animal characteristics made by the Taíno Indians. Its significance is unknown, but it’s believed to have represented a deity and to have contained many powers.

Downstairs is a small collection of Taíno artifacts: necklaces of stone and shells, ritual vomit spatulas, ceremonial maracas, a Dogolito (a phallic symbol of power for caciques), and the mysterious stone collar/belt, the purpose of which is unknown. Upstairs are poster-size photographs of petroglyphs found in Jayuya, Comerio, Utuado, Naguabo, Luquillo, Corozal, and Río Piedras.

Next door is Casa Museo Canales (787/828-4094, Sat.–Sun. noon–4 p.m., weekdays by appointment, $1 adults, $0.50 children under 12), a historic home typical of 19th-century coffee plantations.