The road angling downhill past the northwest corner of the plaza marks the route to La Quitería mine, the most famous local digging. About five miles (8 km) from town, at the end of a jeep-negotiable dirt road, lie the ruins. Stripped of machinery by local people, the bare walls, gaping processing pits, and great ore tailings are all that remain of a mine that produced millions in gold and silver before closing around 1930.

Head out of town along the west (Puerto Vallarta) road; after about two downhill miles (3 km), a signed gate on the right marks the driveway to Hacienda Jalisco, the lifelong project of American expatriate Bud Acord. Close the gate after you enter and continue another half mile to the Hacienda.

If, like many visitors, you arrive by plane, you won’t be able to avoid seeing the Hacienda Jalisco, because the airstrip is on its land. Bud moved into the dilapidated 1840-era estate during the late 1960s.

Although he claims he’s lazy, the Hacienda Jalisco now shines with his handiwork: high-ceilinged, antiques-furnished guest rooms have fireplaces and gleaming private baths. Downstairs, a kitchen and a small museum (visitors welcome, entrance fee $1) lead to a baronial sala and a porticoed veranda and flowery courtyard. Bud rents his guest rooms; don’t miss the opportunity to stay at least one night at Hacienda Jalisco.