One of the sprinkling of good downtown hotel options is the longtime Hotel Los Cuatro Vientos (Matamoros 520, tel./fax 322/222-0161 or 322/222-2831, www.chezelena.com), perched in the quiet, picturesque hillside neighborhood above and a few blocks north of the main town church. The 16 rooms and suites are tucked in tiers above a flowery patio and restaurant Chez Elena, and beneath a rooftop panoramic-view sundeck. The fan-only units are simply but attractively decorated in colonial style, with tile, brick, and traditional furniture and crafts. Rates (excluding Dec. 15–Jan. 6) run about $68 s or d, $78 for a suite October 15–June 15, $35 and $50 other times, with continental breakfast (during Oct.–June high season only) and a small pool; credit cards are accepted. Rooms vary, so check more than one before paying.

At the north end of the Malecón stands one of Puerto Vallarta’s popular old mainstays, the homey beachfront Hotel Rosita (Díaz Ordaz 901, corner of 31 de Octubre, tel./fax 322/223-2185, 322/223-2000, or 322/223-2151, www.hotelrosita.com). It’s centered around a grassy, palm-shadowed oceanview pool, patio, and restaurant, with plenty of space for relaxing and socializing. Most of the spacious rooms, of típica Mexican tile, white stucco, and wood, either look out to the ocean, or down upon the tranquil patio scene, while some, to be avoided if possible, border the noisy, smoggy main street. An unfortunate, but probably necessary, wire security fence mars the ocean view from the patio. Egress to the nearest beach, Playa Camarón, is through a south-side gate. The Rosita’s 115 rooms ($66–95 d low season, $95–140 high, depending on location) include fans or air-conditioning, security boxes, and a bar; credit cards are accepted.