Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
Just north of I-40 from Old Town, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (2401 12th St. NW, 505/843-7270, www.indianpueblo.org, 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. daily, $6) is a must-visit before heading to any of the nearby Indian communities.
The horseshoe-shaped building (modeled after the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco Canyon in northwestern New Mexico) houses a large museum that traces the history of the first settlers along the Rio Grande, illustrated with some beautiful artifacts.
The central plaza hosts dance performances (11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Apr.–Oct., noon Nov.–Mar.).
The extensively stocked gift shop is a very good place to buy pottery and jewelry, as well as Native American music on CD.
You can also have a lunch of posole and frybread at the Pueblo Harvest Café.
Don’t miss the south wing, which contains a gallery for contemporary art.
At the information desk, check on ceremony schedules and get directions to the various pueblos.
© Zora O'Neill from Moon Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque, 2nd edition