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Who knew that English cuisine would have its day? 
The Crown & Goose (123 S. Central St., 865/524-2100, Tues.–Thurs. 4:30 p.m.–1 a.m., Fri.–Sat. 4:30 p.m.–2 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.–4 p.m., $12–28) in the Old City is proving that Welsh rarebit, fish-and-chips, and bangers and mash are indeed good food. But to be fair, the Crown & Goose is far more than British Isle pub food.
They have adopted the best of the Continent, as well, and put it on display in dishes like spring-vegetable-and-wild-mushroom risotto, San Marzano tomato and Stilton bisque, and the Frenchman’s Lunch, a European cheese board served with bread. Best of all, the Crown & Goose has a stylish but unpretentious atmosphere that appreciates good food. This is a nice choice for an unexpectedly good dinner.
© Susanna Henighan Potter from Moon Tennessee, 5th Edition
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