Restaurants

A great place to kick off the day with a hearty meal is Austin Street Cafe (405 N. Austin St., 432/729-4653, www.austinstreetcafe.com, weekends only, 8 a.m.–3 p.m., $3–8), a low-key spot with high-quality fare. Austin Street is known for its welcoming large windows and screened-in porch and its sumptuous egg dishes. For breakfast, sample the curried eggs or the green eggs (blended with cheese and spinach). At lunch, go with the tomato basil soup paired with one of the large, healthy salads. Be sure to grab a fresh fruit smoothie to go.

For dinner, head to the amazing Blue Javelina (1300 San Antonio St., 432/729-1919, 6–10 p.m. Tues.–Sat., $8–30). Located in the shell of a 1940s gas station, this casual yet upscale eatery focuses on three culinary cultures: Mediterranean, Mexican, and American. The results are astounding, with a tempting blend of rich seasonings and bold spices punctuating dishes like the chile relleno salad and the exquisite Moroccan burger featuring lamb sausage, feta cheese, and sun-dried tomato. The surrounding whimsical artwork, some of it gas station–themed, perfectly complements Marfa’s artistic-minded community.

Visitors can still order traditional small-town food in Marfa, too. A favorite among locals is Adobe Moon (200 S. Abbott St., 432/729-3030, 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Tues.–Sat., $5–12), a barbecue restaurant serving Central Texas–style fare based on the classic German meat markets. You can’t go wrong with the brisket or sausage here (ribs and chicken are also on the menu), and the sweet sides offer the perfect accompaniment to the tangy barbecue sauce.

Another popular choice with locals and families is the Pizza Foundation (100 E. San Antonio St., 432/729-3377, www.pizzafoundation.com, noon–9 p.m. Thurs.–Mon., $2–12). The thin-sliced pie is perfectly prepared with a hearty tomato sauce, and the fresh salads and frozen limeade are necessary pairings with a slice or four of this tasty pizza.

Coffee and Juice Shops

One of the most memorable spots in Marfa for a coffee (or breakfast, or a book, or an album) is the incomparable Brown Recluse (111 W. San Antonio St., 432/729-1811, www.brownreclusemarfa.com). A perfect funky accompaniment to the nearby Thunderbird Motel, the Brown Recluse features “cowboy- and Mexican-inspired” coffee, tea, juice, pastries, and breakfast dishes.

The scones and omlettes are outstanding, especially when the weather is nice and you can enjoy them on the patio, and the used book and record collection is equally as compelling. You’ll want to return to the Brown Recluse often to sample all the eclectic items on and off the menu.

When you’re downtown marveling at the Presidio County Courthouse or checking out the art galleries, be sure to drop by the tucked-away Squeeze Marfa (215 N. Highland Ave. across from the courthouse, 432/729-4500, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Tues.–Sat.). There’s much more on the menu than just drinks, but the flavorful fruit juices and satisfying smoothies are the main draw. Other highlights include the perfectly grilled paninis, the homemade soups, and the chocolate corner featuring high-quality Swiss chocolate.

© Andy Rhodes from Moon Texas, 6th Edition