For a major recreation and retirement center, St. George is curiously lacking in unique places to eat. Almost every chain restaurant can be found here, but don't expect a bevy of local fine-dining houses.

The best place to head for lunch or dinner is Ancestor's Square, a trendy shopping development at the intersection of St. George Boulevard and Main Street. Painted Pony (435/634-1700, www.painted-pony.com, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 4-9 p.m. Sun., $10-24), a stylish restaurant where the kitchen puts Southwestern and, in some cases, Asian touches on American standards; try salmon rolls with a carrot orange sauce. Downstairs from the Painted Pony is another pretty good restaurant, Benja Thai and Sushi (435/628-9538, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 5-9 p.m. Sun., $11-20), one of the very few Thai restaurants in southern Utah. Just across St. George Boulevard, Bear Paw Coffee (75 N. Main St., 435/634-0126, 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily, $7-9) is a bright spot for coffee drinkers and anyone who wants a good breakfast.

Surprisingly enough, the Holiday Inn is home to one of St. George's better restaurants, Orchids (850 S. Bluff St., 435/656-1889, 7-10 a.m., 11 a.m.-4 p.m., and 5-9 p.m. daily, dinner $18-50), where the spendy dinners include dishes such as chateaubriand, lobster tail, and osso bucco.

There's a sweetly elegant spot up by Snow Canyon: Xetava Gardens Cafe (815 Coyote Gulch, 435/656-0165, 8 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Thurs.-Sat., 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Sun.-Wed., dinner $10-30). Dinners range from excellent burgers and pizza to rack of lamb; this is also a great place to come for breakfast ($7-9) after a morning hike.