Named by Captain Vancouver in 1792—he was obviously unimpressed—much of this remote waterway is now protected as a marine park. A wilderness-seeker’s paradise, the park is totally undeveloped and without road access.

The sheltered waters of Okeover Arm—a southern arm of Desolation Sound—are much more accessible, with road access along Malaspina Road, off Highway 101 south of Lund. Forested four-hectare (10-acre) Okeover Arm Provincial Park lies on the water; it’s a small, rustic park with just a few undeveloped campsites ($12), a pit toilet, and a kayak- and boat-launching ramp, but it’s a great spot to camp if you’re into canoeing or kayaking.

North of the park Desolation Resort (2694 Dawson Rd., 604/483-3592, www.desolationresort.com, mid-Feb.–Sept., $159–339 s or d) offers a wonderful escape at reasonable prices. Accommodations are in freestanding wood chalets set high above the lake edge on stilts. All feature rich-colored wood furnishings, and even the smallest (the bottom half of one unit) has a king-size bed, large deck, kitchen, separate living and dining areas, and a barbecue.