Casual

Appropriately, the skull and crossbones fly over the Jolly Roger (284/495-4559, 8 a.m.–midnight daily, www.jollyrogerbvi.com, $8–25), a bar and restaurant as popular with locals as it is with tourists. Choose to dine upstairs by the bar or downstairs by the waterfront. Regular menu items include barbecue, rotis, pizzas, and salads, while the daily specials always feature fresh seafood, pasta, and more, often with an Asian flair. This is a good place for hearty breakfasts, too, and is within walking distance from the West End ferry dock.

The deli at Harbour Market (284/495-4541, 8 a.m.–6 p.m., $5–7), a high-end grocery store at Soper’s Hole Marina, makes good sandwiches to go.

West Indian

If you’re catching an early ferry from West End, try Zelma’s Courtesy (West End, 284/495-4211, 6 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, $2–8) for breakfast. Zelma’s, right across the road from the dock, serves fresh johnnycakes, pâtés (fried stuffed bread), fried fish, and bush tea. Or try hot “dumb bread” (so called because it is unleavened and does not rise) with cheese.

Pisces Restaurant and Bar (Soper’s Hole, 284/495-3154, 7:30 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, $4–18) is a friendly and casual café serving three meals a day. Located right next to Soper’s Hole Marina, Pisces serves hearty American-style breakfasts, casual lunch, and dinners with a touch of class. The local food menu is popular.

Fine Dining

Tortola’s fine dining list got an addition in 2008 with the opening of Watermark (284/494-8811, 6–10 p.m. Tues.–Sun., 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun., $20–45) at Frenchman’s Resort on Frenchman’s Cay. Watermark chef Todd Howard was once a member of Canada’s national culinary team. The Watermark menu is small and seasonal and is focused on seafood.

© Susanna Henighan Potter from Moon Virgin Islands, 4th edition