In Ilwaco, Heidi’s Inn (126 Spruce St., 360/642-2387 or 800/576-1032, $79–99 s or d) is a tidy, simple little motel that accepts pets.
Owned by the same folks who run the Shelburne Inn in Seaview, China Beach Retreat (222 Capt. Robert Grey Dr., Ilwaco, 360/642-5660 or 360/642-2442, www.chinabeachretreat.com, $215–245) is a lovely 1907 house set amidst an orchard near the mouth of Columbia River. The house is beautifully decorated.
One of the most distinctive local lodging places is at Cape Disappointment State Park, where you can rent one of three historic three-bedroom Lighthouse Keeper’s Residences (360/642-3078). The head lighthouse keeper’s residence ($377) offers the best views of the lighthouse and the mouth of the Columbia, and assistant lighthouse keepers’ residences ($267) are nearby. All homes sleep six and feature fully-equipped kitchens and living rooms with TVs and DVD players.
© Ericka Chickowski from Moon Washington, 8th edition