Right on the river and only a few steps from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Lyre River Recreation Area offers free primitive campsites year-round. The best camping choice on the entire Strait, though, is at
Salt Creek County Park (three miles east of Joyce off Hwy. 112, 360/928-3441, $24 full hookups, $18 tent), a gorgeous park that accommodates tent campers and RVers alike and is surrounded by trails, an old fort, and loads of tidepools to explore.

Farther along the route in Sekiu, Curley’s Resort (360/963-2281 or 800/542-9680, www.curleysresort.com, $48–100 s or d) has nice motel units and cabins with kitchenettes, as well as RV hookups, boat and kayak rentals, a dive shop, and even whale-watching trips through its Puffin Charters service.

Also of note is Winter Summer Inn B&B (360/963-2264, www.wintersummerinn.com, 75–115 d), with decks overlooking the Clallam River and full breakfasts. The B&B has two rooms with private baths, as well as a separate studio apartment that doesn’t include the breakfast.