Flora and Fauna

Here’s why the isolated island is so great—no ticks, no pesky raccoons, no skunks, and no bears. In short, no perils for backpackers. The worst thing out in Rock Island are the rather pernicious fields of poison ivy (though these are usually well marked). There are white-tailed deer, lemmings, foxes, and a few other small mammals and amphibians. Plenty of nonpoisonous snakes can also be seen.

The northern hardwood forest is dominated by sugar maple and American beech. The eastern hemlock is gone. The perimeters have arbor vitae (white cedar) and small varieties of red maple and red and white pine.

Sights

Two of the most historically significant buildings in Wisconsin, as deemed by the Department of the Interior, are Thordarson’s massive limestone Viking Hall and boathouse. Patterned after historic Icelandic manors, the structures were cut, slab by slab, from Rock Island limestone by Icelandic artisans and workmen ferried over from Washington Island. Only the roof tiling isn’t made from island material. That’s a lot of rock, considering that the hall could hold more than 120 people. The hand-carved furniture, mullioned windows, and rosemaling-like detail, including runic inscriptions outlining Norse mythology, are magnificent.

The original name of Rock Island was Potawatomi Island, a name that lives on in one of the original lighthouses in Wisconsin, Potawatomi Light, built in 1836. The original structure was swept from the cliffs by the surly lake soon after being built but was replaced. Unfortunately, it’s not open to the public except for ranger-led tours. The house is accessible via a two-hour trail.

On the east side of the island are the remnants of a former fishing village and a historic water tower—don’t laugh—it, too, is on the National Register of Historic Places. The village dwelling foundations lie in the midst of thickets and are tough to spot; there are also a few cemeteries not far from the campsites. These are the resting spots of the children and families of lighthouse keepers and even Chief Chip-Pa-Ny, a Menominee leader.

Otherwise, the best thing to do is just skirt the shoreline and discover lake views from atop the bluffs, alternating at points with up to half a mile of sandy beach or sand dunes. Near campsite 15, you’ll pass some carvings etched into the bluff, done by Thordarson’s bored workers.

Recreation

At one time a sawmill buzzed the logs taken from Rock Island; the wheel-rutted paths to the mill turned into rough roads. Thordarson let them grow over during his tenure on the island, but today they form the basis for a few miles of the park’s 9.5 total hiking miles. The island is only 900-plus acres, so you’ve got plenty of time to cover everything, assuming you’re not just spending an afternoon. If that’s the case, you can do double-time and cover the perimeter in just under three hours. You’ll see all the major sights and an additional magnificent view on the northeast side—on a clear day you can see all the way to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. For those less aerobically inclined, just head for the Algonquin Nature Trail Loop, an hour-long (maximum) traipse.

No wheeled vehicles are allowed in the park. The dock does allow private mooring for a fee of $1 per foot.

Camping

The camping at Rock Island is absolutely splendid (next to the Apostle Islands, the best in the state), with sites strung along a beachfront of sand and, closer to the pier, large stones. Many of the sites farthest from the main compound are fully isolated, almost scooped into dunes and, thus, fully protected from wind but with smashing views (site 13 is a favorite).

Rock Island holds 40 primitive campsites (all reservable) with water and pit toilets: 35 to the southwest of the ferry landing, another 5 spread along the shore farther southeast—these are isolated backpacker sites. Two additional group campsites are also available. Reservations are a good idea in summer and fall (and essential on weekends during those times).

Note: Rock Island State Park is a pack-in, pack-out facility, so plan wisely.

Getting to Rock Island State Park

If you’re not sea kayaking over, the Karfi (it means “seaworthy for coastal journeys” in Icelandic, so fear not; 920/847-2252) has regular service. Boats depart Jackson Harbor on Washington Island daily May 25–mid-October (usually Columbus Day for some reason); the boat leaves hourly 10 a.m.–4 p.m. in high season (June– Aug.) with an extra trip at 6 p.m. Friday. Round-trip tickets cost $9 adults and $11 campers with gear. In the off-season, you can arrange a boat, but it’s prohibitively expensive.

Private boats are permitted to dock at the pier, but a mooring fee is charged.

© Thomas Huhti from Moon Wisconsin, 5th Edition