Nouvelle cuisine is done magnificently at Sanford (1547 N. Jackson St., 414/276-9608, 5:30 p.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Fri.–Sat., $30–70), one of the state’s most original and respected innovators of cuisine and definitely a place to cook up an excuse for a splurge. It’s feted by national foodie media and garnered a wall full of awards—Gourmet magazine in 2006 once again named it one of the United States’ top 50 restaurants.

Something you’d never expect? How about a remarkable meal in a Milwaukee casino? Read on, for the elegant and creative fare at Potawatomi Bingo Casino’s Dream Dance (1721 W. Canal St., 414/847-7883, 5–9 p.m. Tues.–Thurs., 5–10 p.m. Fri.–Sat., $26–39) is worth the trip even for the nonslots players. Mouthwatering steaks and outstanding venison highlight a lengthy, creative menu.

Most of the more sybaritic Milwaukee accommodations offer excellent dining. Of note might be the Knickerbocker on the Lake, which features two well-realized restaurants. The Knick (1028 E. Juneau St., 414/272-0011, 11 a.m.–3 p.m. weekdays and 5 p.m.–midnight daily, also 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat., till 5 p.m. Sun., $5–22) has casual to elegant, traditional to cutting-edge fare, all well done. In the hotel also is the coolly elegant but quite relaxed Osteria del Mondo.