You’ll find the most substantial Mexican menu (not to mention a most unpretentious atmosphere) at Tres Hermanos (1332 W. Lincoln Ave., 414/384-9050, $9–20), specializing in seafood in virtually every form—particularly a soup that’ll knock your socks off. Rootsy, live Tex Mex and Norteña music on weekends. Hours are 11 a.m.– 10 p.m. Sunday–Thursday, 11 a.m.–midnight Friday–Saturday.

Milwaukee’s southeast side is a haven for unpretentious authentic Mexican eateries; some Mexican grocers have lunch counters in the back or sell delectable tamales ready for takeout.

Conejito’s (4th and Virginia Sts, 11 a.m.–midnight daily) is a neighborhood bar-restaurant with authentic atmosphere and real-deal Mexican food from $4.

The same is true at Jalisco’s, which has numerous locations (one at 2207 E. North Ave.) but whose original (9405 S. 27th St., 414/672-7070, $5), after perishing in a fire, has a slick new rebuild to go with its great food. Jalisco’s restaurants (7 a.m.–3 a.m. Sun–Thurs, 24 hours Fri – Sat) serve creative burritos as big as your head.