View atop a grassy hill of a small strip of buildings and a span of grass between them and a long stretch of beach.

Exploring Brazil’s Cocoa Coast: Ilhéus

Today, traces of the legacy of the “colonels” can be glimpsed by wandering among the handful of grandiose mansions and civic buildings of Ilhéus’s small historical center. Surrounded by native Atlantic forest and, to the north and south, boasting some attractive white-sand beaches—Ilhéus is well worth exploring.