FREDERICKSBURG

The most popular getaway destination in Central Texas is Fredericksburg (pop. 9,700). This big town, one of the largest in the Hill Country, is spilling over with German charm, Wild West allure, and Texas hospitality. Main Street, which runs straight through town, is lined with old historic limestone buildings with wrought-iron balconies, historic storefronts, and German biergartens, all in a Wild West setting. In a few words, Fredericksburg is Roy Rogers in Bavaria. This German frontierism isn’t just made up for tourism—it’s the real deal. In the mid 1800s after Annexation, Europeans, most of whom were German, were the first white folks to settle this frontier region. These Euro-pioneers brought with them all their traditions, including schnitzel, oompah music, and beer. The vestiges of this German heritage haven’t eroded over time, but on the contrary, have become what defines Fredericksburg.

In recent years Fredericksburg has become a major tourist attraction for Central Texas. The town is a small grid of old streets lined with old trees, creating neighborhoods with historic houses and bungalows. These neighborhoods are small-town America at its height, and remind one of the sentimental paintings of Thomas Kinkade. Main Street is lined with shops and boutiques that peddle all sorts of stuff for the middle class, such as home furnishings and decor, Western wear, country kitsch, and frontier-themed souvenirs. There are also a few interesting museums and historic sights to meander through, antique stores in which to find treasures, and wine-tasting shops, as well as hundreds of bed-and-breakfasts to pamper you during your stay. Just north is Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, which adds to the town’s draw. With a rich history, a lot to see and do, and quaint places to spend money, it’s no surprise people keep coming back to Fredericksburg. The Fredericksburg Convention and Visitors Bureau (302 E. Austin St., 830/997-6523, www.fredericksburg-texas.com, 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat., noon–4 p.m. Sun.) is your local source for information.]

Sights and Activities
One of the first U.S. Army outposts in Texas was Fort Martin Scott (1606 E. Main St., 830/997-9895, www.fortmartinscott.com, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Tues.–Sun., free), at the eastern end of Fredericksburg. There’s not much here except for a few buildings in a field, but it does offer an interesting look at what a frontier Texas fort looked like before the Civil War. Only one original building remains; the rest are re-creations. The fort was active 1848–1853; once it closed as a military outpost it was used by Texas Rangers and homesteaders and was the site of the county fair for a few years. The fort grounds are open to the public all the time.

The most off-the-beaten-path attraction in town—which happens to be my favorite—is Gish’s Old West Museum (502 Milam St., 830/997-2794, by appointment only, free). Joe Gish, collector of Wild West memorabilia and artifacts, has opened his collection to the public. The museum is in an old cabin on his private property. The place is covered from floor to ceiling in sheriff’s badges, old rifles, saddles, cowboy hats, chaps, and spurs. Gish also has memorabilia from the silent-movie cowboys, as well as a fascinating collection of old photos of weathered faces from the frontier days.

WWII buffs from all over come to Fredericksburg to visit the The National Museum of the Pacific War (340 E. Main St., 830/997-4379, www.nimitz-museum.org, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, $5). The museum, dedicated exclusively to telling the story of the Pacific Theater battles of World War II, has over 1,000 artifacts from the Pacific War including Allied Japanese aircraft, tanks, and guns. The nine-acre complex also includes a shrine to WWII heroes in the Admiral Nimitz Museum, which is housed in the historic Nimitz Hotel. Also on the grounds is the recent installation of the George Bush Gallery; the Japanese Garden of Peace; the Pacific Combat Zone, complete with artillery and PT Boat; Veterans Walk of Honor; the Plaza of the Presidents; and the Center for Pacific War Studies.

The Pioneer Museum (309 W. Main St., 830/997-2835, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 1–5 p.m. Sun., $4), is a must-see when in Fredericksburg. This well put together complex of historic buildings furnished with artifacts offers a rare glimpse into the day-to-day life of the first pioneers of the Hill Country. The focal point of the complex is the historic home and store of the Kammlah family. All the other buildings were brought in for preservation. The museum and complex are run by a few elderly women in period clothes. They and their outfits add to the museum’s charm by being stuffy and old-fashioned.