Smith’s and Hamilton Parishes

Stamped with some of Bermuda’s most rugged scenery, Smith’s and Hamilton Parishes will appeal to outdoors enthusiasts seeking Bermuda’s less-manicured face, as well as history buffs, birders, naturalists, and beachgoers. Families with children will find plenty to entertain youngsters, from caves and beaches to playgrounds and the island’s only aquarium and zoo.

Two beautiful bodies of water shape the contours of these parishes—Harrington Sound and Castle Harbour. Each is ringed by stunning homes, often hidden from the main road, and a honeycomb of limestone caves, including two open for public tours. Both parishes feature sections of the South and North Shores, scenic stretches of the Railway Trail, wide farmland tracts, beaches, swimming coves, nature reserves, historic sites, and must-see attractions.

The southern coast of both parishes was one of the areas hardest hit by Hurricane Fabian in 2003. Exposed limestone cliffs and beaches were ravaged, and low-lying residential neighborhoods were evacuated as terrific rollers swamped shoreline homes, tore slate off hundreds of roofs, and destroyed sections of South Shore Road, crumpling the tarmac like a kicked-up carpet. Little evidence of such destruction remains, aside from visibly eroded limestone cliffs and hilltop views of the sea where there were none before. South Shore Road, which looked like an earthquake victim post-Fabian, has been rebuilt, and restoration of beachfront and affected nature reserves continues.

There are several routes to travel through the two parishes, the most scenic being South Shore Road and Harrington Sound Road. In Smith’s, South Shore Road leads east from Collector’s Hill, up McGall’s Hill, and past the wooded splendor of Spittal Pond to John Smith’s Bay and Mangrove Lake, Bermuda’s largest saltwater pond. Continuing east on the South Shore, you enter a small chunk of Hamilton Parish, most of it cushioned by the undulating greens of the world-famous Mid Ocean Golf Club. Briefly crossing the parish boundary (into Tucker’s Town, St. George’s), it’s necessary to cut through Paynter’s Road to return to Hamilton Parish via picturesque, serpentine Harrington Sound Road.

From the eastern reaches of Hamilton Parish, you can take the Causeway into St. George’s or explore North Shore neighborhoods, such as Coney Island, Bailey’s Bay, and Crawl. North Shore Road also hugs the cove-sprinkled coast through Smith’s to the border of Flatts Village, before linking to a narrow, postcard-pretty stretch of Harrington Sound Road—another pleasant way east, particularly on dead-calm days when the North Shore horizon looks like a lake, and arriving cruise ships can be seen following the distant channel into the Great Sound. Middle Road is a third route through Smith’s, traversing the parish’s residential interior, where schools, a riding stable, farm fields, and grazing pastures reveal Bermudians’ busy daily lives. Interconnecting roads like precipitous Harrington Hundreds, St. Mark’s Road, farm-dotted Verdmont Road, or Knapton Hill with its moongates and modern, middle-class spreads, are also worth meandering if you have the time.

Spittal Pond Nature Reserve: Heavily battered by 2003’s Hurricane Fabian, the island’s premier nature reserve underwent the start of a full-scale restoration in 2005. Explore the sprawling 60-acre bird sanctuary via rolling coastal trails with unparalleled views of the South Shore. (read more)

John Smith’s Bay: A family favorite, this small half-moon bay is good for a day’s retreat or just a dip while touring the eastern parishes. It is one of the few beaches with lifeguards on duty through the summer. (read more)

Gibbet Island Beach: A safe, idyllic swimming and snorkeling spot, especially for children, though the main island across the bay has an unsavory past. (read more)

Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo: Long Bermuda’s favorite attraction, this waterfront facility’s lushly exotic grounds and modern exhibits offer an up-close look at Bermuda’s diverse marinelife, plants, conservation projects, and intriguing creatures from oceanic islands around the world. Kids of all ages will love the activity room. (read more)

Blue Hole Park and Walsingham Nature Reserve: For a rejuvenating escape to nature, head to the little-visited forest reserve commonly known as Tom Moore’s Jungle, with winding trails through cherry bushes, mangroves, and sunken caves. Fish and turtles can sometimes be seen in one of its pocket-size lagoons — a delightful swimming hole connected to the sea. (read more)

Crystal Cave and Fantasy Cave: Discovered in the early 1900s, Crystal Cave and Fantasy Cave are but two grand examples of a honeycomb which riddles the parish. The caves themselves offer spectacular interiors, but their garden estate’s royal palms and
behemoth Indian laurel trees are equally fasci-nating. The property’s well-run café is open seven days a week. (read more)

Shelly Bay Beach and Nature Reserve: There’s nothing more beautiful on a summer day than the mirror-flat turquoise shallows of this roadside beach. Surrounded by sports fields, a playground, a grassy picnic area, and nature reserve, it’s popular with families, romantics — and windsurfers, when the breeze picks up. (read more)