Haunting History

An impressive 500 years of colonial history abounds throughout the parishes, and the island’s museums and monuments are a fascinating passage back in time. Some are free and outdoors, such as Spanish Rock — the carving believed left by Portuguese castaways when they scrambled to safety along the Spittal Pond shoreline in the 1500s. Others, like the town of St. George, where modern-day Bermudians live and work amid the cobblestoned milieu of early settlers, provide a “living history” for visitors to experience. The East End town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, oozes a sense of the past from its cedar-clad churches and old limestone buildings that sit on a street grid mapped out in the 1600s. A brand new World Heritage Centre opened in 2006 at historic Penno’s Wharf. The West End Dockyard casts a similar spell: 26 acres of fortified coastline that’s home to a slew of restored military buildings, including the Bermuda Maritime Museum and spectacular Commissioner’s House — a showcase of the island’s nautical and Royal Navy past, including rooms of rare maps, and exhibits on trans-Atlantic slavery, Portuguese and West Indian immigrants, and Bermudian war vets.

Some 90 forts defended Bermuda and its harbors for more than three centuries, from the time of English settlement in 1612 to the last coastal defenses of 1957. With several well-preserved examples and plans to restore many others, Bermuda’s forts are considered a vital record of British built heritage and intrinsic to the island’s cultural tourism. Some fortifications are not accessible, due to overgrown foliage and debris, or are just archaeological remnants of their former glory. But many are in good condition and open to the public, offering a unique vantage point from bastions, ramparts, and dungeons.

You can cover the whole island with visits to Bermuda National Trust properties, including antiques-packed mansions haunted by legendary ghosts. Highlights include Verdmont and Tucker House, plus the Trust Museum in St. George, where a fascinating exhibit details Bermuda’s key role in the U.S. Civil War. If you’re a scuba fan, plan to investigate history from the water; several scuba companies arrange year-round daily dives on the necklace of 100 superb shipwrecks around the island, from sites of Spanish galleons to Second World War battleships and fighter planes.

Day 1

Bermuda began in the East End four centuries ago, so it’s logical to begin your cultural tour of the island in the old town of St. George. After learning about the town’s origins at the World Heritage Centre, visit some of the first stone buildings, including quaint St. Peter’s Church and the State House — used for a slew of witch trials in the 17th century. Ogle the elegant antiques and artworks to get a feel for the lifestyle of Bermuda’s privileged at the well-preserved Tucker House, then follow the fascinating adventures of U.S. Civil War “Rogues & Runners” at the Bermuda National Trust Museum off King’s Square. The Bermuda Heritage Museum, which chronicles the achievements and traditions of the island’s slaves and free blacks, is also worth a visit. Have lunch in one of the town’s waterfront restaurants, before exploring the dungeons and ramparts of scenic Fort St. Catherine — where Charlton Heston once performed Macbeth. Blackbeard’s Hideout, on high near the beach where first settlers landed, is the perfect place for a sunset cocktail.

Day 2

Conjure the ghost at Verdmont, Smith’s Parish — an old family mansion now owned by the National Trust. It’s believed the attic nursery, complete with toys and a child’s cradle, is home to a benevolent spirit. The property’s precious antiques, cedar-clad rooms and rose-filled gardens are just as intriguing. Nearby, at Spittal Pond Nature Reserve, climb the mile-long trail to Spanish Rock to relive the view experienced by 16th-century shipwreck survivors. Have lunch at Aqua, the Ariel Sands Resort restaurant owned by Michael Douglas that pays tribute to Bermuda’s Shakespearean ties to The Tempest. Just along the coast, a reconstructed version of Devonshire Bay’s fortifications offer a picturesque walk in this quiet shoreline neighborhood, where fishermen sell their fresh catch — good for a barbecue dinner.

Day 3

Take a dive boat trip out to any of the fascinating shipwrecks encircling the island. Several operators organize full-day packages, with morning and afternoon dives to different sites. Swift access to Bermuda wrecks, and their position in relatively shallow water (60 to 75 feet) means you can spend quality time investigating old paddle steamers, vintage sailing ships, and Second World War vessels. If you’re not certified, operators are usually more than happy to take snorkelers out to surrounding reef preserves, too. In between dives, grab a chowder, soup, or sandwich at a local café or service station, where local fishermen often stop in.

Day 4

Spend the morning at Fort Hamilton, whose panoramic, bird’s-eye view stretches all the way to Dockyard. The maze of limestone dungeons and munitions rooms — once manned by British garrison troops — together with the fort’s bedded lawns and exquisite moat garden, provide one of the island’s best diversions. Have a fish sandwich or West Indian curry in North Hamilton’s laid-back neighborhood, then drop into Bermuda National Gallery, where a permanent collection of prestigious European oils is augmented by regular showcases of the island’s best contemporary artists. Enjoy a late afternoon swim at Admiralty House Park, Pembroke, the former home of British Navy brass, where coastline caves and limestone tunnels carved by the military are fun to explore.

Day 5

Take a ferry ride to the West End Dockyard, where you can spend the morning steeped in British naval history. Climb the ramparts of Bermuda Maritime Museum, where artifacts like coins, pottery and slave irons from shipwrecks through the ages are on display. Outside, stroll the streets and buildings of the Dockyard, Bermuda’s largest fort which was home to the British fleet for 200 years. Stop for lunch in one of the several cafés, then hop on the bus or scooter to Fort Scaur, on Somerset Island, whose bastions offer a beautiful view of the Great Sound. Nearby Whale Bay Fort, in Southampon, also boasts sweeping ocean views — and a quiet beach below for swimming.