CENTRAL SIERRA

Quito and Cuenca are the bookends enclosing the Avenue of the Volcanoes, that perpetually impressive stretch of real estate that makes up the bulk of Ecuador’s mountainous spine. Strung along the Panamerican Highway like beads on a string, large colonial cities rest beneath soaring peaks. Each city is tucked into its own basin valley, and farmland fills in most of the level space in between. The more remote and spectacular areas, fully stocked with volcanoes, lakes, and rivers, have been set aside as parks or reserves.

  Whether you’re seeing how far that dirt road goes past the next village or hiking a well-worn trail around the base of a volcano, you can’t beat the scenery, air, and just plain open space that permeate this part of the Sierra. The Avenue of the Volcanoes, Alexander von Humboldt’s 19th-century nickname for this part of Ecuador, stuck for good reason. The list ranges from broad, confident Chimborazo to wrinkled Rumiñahui, lurking in the shadow of Cotopaxi. Rivers tumble and join to drain the Andean snows into either the Amazon or the Gulf of Guayaquil, and glacier lakes sparkle in the farther reaches.

  Home to roughly half of Ecuador’s total population, the Central Sierra is farmed on almost every available acre. Large plantations hearken back to the days when forced labor supported farms stretching beyond the horizon. Small communities in the mountains plant crops as high as 4,000 meters, supplementing their income through shepherding and crafts.

  The Central Sierra has always been the most dyed-in-the-wool indigenous region of Ecuador. During their reign, the Incas established outposts all along the road to Quito to keep the local populations in line. Today, three-quarters of Chimborazo province considers itself of native descent. Dozens of different groups inhabit the highlands, often each in its own town. Clothes and customs are the most distinguishing characteristics, from the white-and-black garments of the Salasacas to the white-fringed red ponchos of the Quisapinchas.

Cotopaxi National Park: Home to Ecuador’s flagship peak and wild horses, this park is only an hour south of Quito. (read more)

Laguna Quilotoa: Neon waters in a stunning setting make this lake, midway around the Latacunga Loop, well worth the extra mileage. (read more)

Hiking in Baños: Of all its attractions—waterfalls, restaurants, and outdoor activities galore—it’s the outstanding hiking that earns Baños a spot on most travelers’ favorites list. (read more)

Nariz del Diablo Train Ride: Ride on top of the train through the Devil’s Nose below Alausí to gain a new appreciation for the problems faced by railroad engineers in the Andes. (read more)