NORTH COAST AND LOWLANDS

The north and central coast is Ecuador’s forgotten quarter, squeezed in by most visitors only if there’s time left over after the Galápagos, Oriente, and Sierra. Granted, it may be the least distinctive part of the country, and most of the larger cities aren’t particularly inviting. Tiny, isolated fishing villages have a charm of their own, however, and with a little effort it’s still possible to find deserted beaches washed by warm currents stretching for unbroken kilometers.

  Humid subtropical forests fed by Andean rivers blanket the small portion of the western lowlands that hasn’t been cleared for farmland. Mangroves have a similar toehold on the northern coast. The wettest part of Ecuador’s shore, this area receives three meters of rain annually, which makes it one big, wildly successful mosquito-breeding experiment. The central coast is drier, although not as barren as the area near Guayaquil and farther south. Low, thorny hills rise a short distance inland behind Muisne and Cojimíes and near Machalilla National Park.

  Ecuador’s earliest advanced cultures got their start by the sea, beginning with the Valdivia culture along the central coast as early as 3500 b.c. The Manteña-Huancavilca culture counted 20,000 members by the time Pizarro landed near Esmeraldas in 1526. Repeated pirate attacks during the 17th and 18th centuries left a legacy of non-Spanish surnames in pockets throughout the region.

  Today, most of the local population is descended from slaves who were either freed or escaped during the colonial era. The Maroon culture, as it’s called, remains closely tied to its African heritage through music, dance, and folktales. With its comparatively lenient policies, the audencia of Quito became a haven for escaped slaves from as far away as Brazil, Chile, and Argentina. Frequent uprisings occurred during the colonial period nonetheless, including the Autonomous Territory of Gentle Mulattos, which controlled the coast from Canoa to Atacames for a short while, until slavery was abolished in the New World in 1850.

  Farms growing everything from rice and coffee to corn and citrus fruits keep the lowlands busy. The oil pipeline from the Oriente dead-ends at Esmeraldas, where lines of tankers wait to carry it around the world. Fishing, both industrial and private, is another major source of income, along with beach and nature tourism.

  Mosquito repellent, water, and suntan lotion are essential to any North Coast beach getaway, and carrying your own mosquito net is a good idea. Be well aware of the health risks from food—a particular problem in the land of shaved-ice treats and half-cooked seafood. The coast also is one of Ecuador’s dicier areas in terms of personal safety. Try to avoid night buses, carry as little of value as possible, and don’t trust the lock on your beach cabin to stop a determined thief. Women especially should not walk alone on secluded beaches, even during the day.

Canoa: This sleepy surf town offers a welcome alternative to the crowds of more hectic Montañita. (read more)

Bahía de Caráquez: An anomaly on Ecuador’s coast, Bahía is a large city that’s also tidy and pleasant. (read more)

Puerto López: Word is starting to get out that this is the best place in the country to watch whales June–September. (read more)

Machalilla National Park: Rare coastal forest, archaeology, and the “poor man’s Galápagos” of the Isla de la Plata are all reasons to visit. (read more)