QUITO

Ecuador’s capital is an intriguing mix of old and new: centuries-old colonial buildings huddle next to garish skyscrapers and fast-food outlets; professionals stride pass indigenous musicians and craft-sellers; and electric trolleys glide silently by ancient buses belching clouds of exhaust. For all its contradictions, Quito is blessed with a wealth of historic architecture and museums, vibrant nightlife, a popular and convenient tourist sector, a near-perfect climate, and one of the prettiest settings of any capital in the world.

  After La Paz in Bolivia, Quito is the second-highest capital in Latin America (2,850 meters). The Pichincha volcanoes tower to the west, trapping fleecy clouds that would otherwise drift by and creating the spectacular peach and robin’s-egg-blue sunsets captured in the Paisaje de Quito paintings of Oswaldo Guayasamín. Much of the population of Ecuador’s second-largest city lives in barrios (neighborhoods) or shantytowns up the slopes of the mountains or spread north and south of the city center.

  As the seat of Ecuador’s government and enclave of traditional values, Quito displays a deeply rooted conservative streak. On the other hand, a slew of schools, including the Central University, Catholic University, and the National Polytechnic School, and modern businesses inject a healthy dose of worldly, cosmopolitan attitudes.

  In 1978, Quito was the first city in the world to receive World Heritage Site status from UNESCO. After some slippage in the upkeep department, the municipal government got on the ball and since the millennium has been busily restoring the city’s shine and civic pride. A new feeling of cleanliness and security pervades Old Town, with an increased police presence and horse-drawn carriages clopping past beautifully lit churches at night. Foundations are helping property owners in Old Town with loans and permits to restore historic buildings. The streets have been cleaned up, interior patios tastefully renovated, and street artists have replaced beggars and hawkers. Several large parking facilities and many new restaurants and museums have opened. At the same time, gorgeous old churches are starting to charge admission and prevent tourists from wandering in during mass.

La Compañía: Of all Quito’s world-class colonial churches, none comes close to this one in sheer sacred splendor. (read more)

La Basílica: This vantage point offers tough-to-beat views of the city, plus armadillo gargoyles! (read more)

Casa de la Cultura: This gleaming glass structure in Parque El Ejido houses museums chock full of colonial art, archaeology, musical instruments, and—best of all—gold! (read more)

Itchimbia Park and Cultural Center: Head up to the Itchimbia neighborhood overlooking Old Town for the impressive new cultural center and a chic sunset drink at Mosaico. (read more)

Capilla del Hombre: Oswaldo Guayasamín’s Chapel of Man is a fitting coda to a life of art and advocacy. (read more)

Mitad del Mundo: You can’t visit Ecuador without standing with a foot in each hemisphere at the equator. (read more)

Mindo: The birding in the cloud forests is fantastic, and the town itself is charming. (read more)