Two days isn’t a whole lot of time for one of the biggest cities in the world, but the amount of fun you can have in Mexico City in just a weekend is impressive. A weekend is certainly long enough to get you hooked and to get you to start planning your next trip. These days you can purchase last-minute airline tickets from the U.S. sometimes for as low as $250, making D.F. a reasonable alternative to going to New York City, Miami, or San Francisco for the weekend—especially when you factor in lower hotel and restaurant costs.

DAY 1, MORNING
Start in the heart of the city, at the Zócalo, surrounded on all sides by some of the most important monuments in Mexico. Dominating the view is the Catedral Metropolitana. It is well worth your while to take an hour or so to admire both its architectural grandeur and the collection of religious art tucked into the seemingly endless alcoves and side altars. Right next door are the ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor, along with the Museo del Templo Mayor, which has exhibits on art and artifacts found during its excavation. If you like the look of the red-brick Palacio Nacional, also on the Zócalo, step inside to see Diego Rivera’s famous murals. After seeing these three sights at a leisurely pace, you’ll be starting to work up an appetite, so walk a couple of blocks west of the Zócalo and stop for lunch at either El Cardenal or Hostería Santo Domingo.

DAY 1, AFTERNOON
After the comida, walk west on Calle Tacuba, which dates from Aztec times and is lined with ornate colonial mansions. Across the busy Eje Central avenue, just past the Venetian-style Palacio Postal, is the imposing Palacio de Bellas Artes. Stop in to admire the art nouveau/art deco architecture, the impressive Tiffany glass curtain, and the political murals. Just beyond is the Alameda, Mexico City’s first public park, a fine place to take a rest on a bench and watch the world go by. If you’ve got more energy to spare, finish up the day with a visit to the eclectic applied-arts collection at the Museo de Franz Mayer or switch to shopping mode and visit the FONART store, just off the Alameda, or the handicrafts market at La Ciudadela, just south of the Alameda on Calle Balderas.

DAY 1, EVENING
With only one weekend night out in Mexico City to live it up, you might as well do it in style. So put on some respectable duds and head over to Hacienda de los Morales in Polanco, where you can savor sublime Mexican cooking in the refined atmosphere of a 16th-century hacienda. For late-night entertainment, the options are many: salsa dancing, old-school cantinas, hipster lounges, queer clubs, political cabaret shows, you name it. But if you have to pick one place to get a taste of the soul of Mexico City’s nightlife, it’s got to be Plaza Garibaldi. Make your way through the crowd of revelers mingling with mariachi musicians crowding this little square in the Centro, and grab a table in the venerable Salón Tenampa. Buy a bottle of your favorite drink, pay one of the roving bands to strike up a classic old bolero tune, and join the fun.

DAY 2, MORNING
You’ll be feeling a little groggy, so start off with a solid breakfast. One good option is Café Los Asombros at the El Péndulo bookstores in the Condesa or the Zona Rosa, where you can ease into the day with a big omelet filled with spinach, mushrooms, and goat cheese; a tall glass of juice; and an espresso cortado. Suitably fortified, head to the world-famous Museo Nacional de Antropología e Historia along Paseo de la Reforma for an hour or two. Don’t even think of trying to see all the exhibit halls or you’ll be spent for the day. Afterward, deprogram with a walk across the street through the leafy Parque Chapultepec, with a short detour up to the hilltop castle/museum to check out the views over the city.

DAY 2, AFTERNOON / EVENING
Sunday afternoon is a great time to head down to the former colonial-era village of Coyoacán, in the south part of the city. Amble around the twin plazas, thronged with handicraft vendors and locals out enjoying the weekend. A few blocks away along quiet cobblestone streets are the houses of the conquistador Cortés and his much-maligned lover and interpreter, La Malinche, as well as the Museo Frida Kahlo, dedicated to Mexico’s best-known woman artist. After you’re done touring, top off your weekend with another good meal—this time at one of the many great restaurants in the hip Condesa district. A good choice is El Zorzal, where you can dig into a juicy Argentine steak with red wine, empanadas, and a big bowl of salad.