THE MATAGALPA AND JINOTEGA HIGHLANDS

Nicaragua’s cool, central highlands of rolling blue-green mountains are speckled with small farms, clay-tiled adobe houses, and shady forest streams. It gets chilly up here in la montaña, and if the clouds blow through, your exploration from one enchanted valley to the next may feel like a foray into a lost land. This is a country of caves, legends, myths, fresh produce, and above all, Nicaraguan black gold: coffee.

  Both Jinotega and Matagalpa paid heavily in blood and destruction during the revolution and the Contra war that followed, but today’s Norteños work their farms without the fear of war and bend their backs instead in the struggle against rural poverty, drought, and devastatingly low prices in the coffee market. The whole region is rich with corn, beans, flowers, and vegetables, and the warmth and friendliness of the hardy people that live in this tough land will astonish you as much as the fresh beauty of the rolling, rocky countryside. Entrepreneur-minded campesinos are organizing local eco-tourism initiatives in more than one mountain village, and curious travelers who aren’t afraid of using a latrine will discover firsthand the humble hospitality that has also made Matagalpa and Jinotega famous.

Parque Darío: End your self-guided walking tour of Matagalpa City here, in this shady plaza where you can watch the world go by and listen to the deafening calls of the birds in the treetops. (read more)

La Catedral de San Pedro de Matagalpa: One of the north’s finest structures, this gorgeous cathedral can be spotted from anywhere in town. (read more)

Grupo Venancia: Rub shoulders with Matagalpa’s enlightened citizens and visitors while you enjoy stimulating theater and great music. (read more)

Finca Esperanza Verde: Call ahead to reserve space at this award-winning eco-tourism effort in the hills above San Ramón, with hiking trails through area coffee farms and deep, fertile valleys. (read more)

Hotel de Montaña Selva Negra: A hotel quite unlike any other, Selva Negra has enough farm tours, mountain hikes, good food, and quiet, peaceful relaxation to rest any weary soul. (read more)

San Rafael del Norte: Visit this cool and historical village in the hills west of Jinotega for a unique taste of the north country; poke through the Sandino Museum and hike to several waterfalls. (read more)