The Uninhabited Cays

The loveliest and most unspoiled islands in the archipelago are fairly remote, and they can be difficult to visit unless one has access to a yacht. There are no accommodations on these remote cays.

The Cayos Holandéses are the best-known of the many gorgeous uninhabited and lightly populated islands toward the western end of the archipelago. They are 15 kilometers north of the mainland, farther offshore than any others in the archipelago. Yachts like to hang out here, as do snorkelers. The coral in some areas is beautiful, though even out here the waters have been overfished and the coral damaged.

To the west of the Holandéses, and closer to the Porvenir area, are the also lovely Cayos Chichime, the Cayos Limónes, and, farther south, the Cayos Los Grullos.

About 40 minutes east of the Holandéses by large motorboat (the smallest thing one should be in this far out) are the Cayos Coco Bandero (Ordupuquip in Kuna). It’s a pristine group of more than a half dozen islets that’s rarely visited by anyone other than yachties. It’s stunningly beautiful out here. A Spanish galleon supposedly sank around this area, but neither the ship nor the gold have ever been found. There’s also a modern-day wreck, a cargo ship, that’s lodged upright on the nearby reef. It makes for quite a haunting sight. The waters are calm, protected by the same reef that snagged the ship, making it an appealing spot for snorkelers.

The Cayos Holandéses are accessible by boat from the Porvenir, Río Sidra, and the Corazón de Jesús/Narganá areas, but it’s quite a haul on open sea that can turn rough. Coco Bandero is much closer to Narganá/Corazón de Jesús. None of the hotels offers a visit to the more distant of these island groups as part of their standard packages, but they may be able to arrange a trip for an extra free. Do not attempt the trip without a life jacket. Most visitors will be content with exploring islands closer to where you’re staying.

The cost of a boat trip, and the time it takes, obviously depend on where you’re coming from and how many islands you want to explore. From Kuanidup, for instance, the trip to the Cayos Holandéses takes at least two hours each way and will cost $60 just for gas, plus a bit more for the boatman’s time. From the Porvenir area it’s about $50 per boatload. For those who can afford it, a far better way to explore this area is by private yacht.