Panama may be a small country, but it’s an elongated one with rugged and varied terrain. Seeing all it has to offer can take far longer than one might expect. Fortunately, many of its top attractions are within an hour’s drive of downtown Panama City. Its most spectacular natural attractions, however, are farther afield.

The quickest way to get around is by air. Panama City is the only true air hub, so getting from Point A to neighboring Point B often requires an intermediate stop in the capital. Since there are relatively few flights and most leave in the early morning, those who want to see a lot of the country will inevitably have layovers in Panama City. One way to work around this is to explore Panama City and its surrounding attractions in staggered intervals as one works one’s way around the isthmus.

If possible, allow at least a week to see Panama City, the Panama Canal, and one or two nature destinations. Two weeks give visitors a chance to truly relax and appreciate Panama’s great beauty and cultural complexity. A visitor with a month to spend can sample every region in the country.

Panama has good roads, cheap and frequent public transportation, clean water, and plenty of other evidence of a modern infrastructure one wouldn’t expect of a developing country. But its tourist infrastructure is rudimentary. Good hotels and restaurants outside Panama City and a few other popular destinations are still limited. And while Panama is a great outdoor-recreation destination, it’s not always easy to find an outfitter or qualified guide.

WHEN TO GO

Panama has two seasons, the rainy and the dry. The dry season lasts mid-December–mid-April and is Panama’s “summer.” Schools let out, families take vacations, and everyone’s ready to party. This is also the high season for tourism. Hotels raise their prices, and occasionally they even fill up.

The weather is especially lovely at the beginning of the dry season. Flowering trees all over the country burst into bloom, and everything seems fresh and luminously green. January and February are among the best times to be in Panama. Later in the dry season the lowlands turn brown and slash-and-burn agriculture can fill the sky with smoke.

The rainy season lasts about mid-April–mid-December. Even during those months, though, the rains in most parts of Panama tend to come in the afternoon or early evening, so it’s often possible to enjoy clear mornings. When the rains do arrive, they typically dump an unbelievable amount of water in an hour or even less and then move on. Storms tend to last longer, and come earlier, late in the rainy season.

Those who’ve never experienced a tropical downpour may want to visit Panama in the rainy season; the storms can be stupendous and are often accompanied by earth-shattering thunderclaps. However, it’s not a great time to go on long hikes or drive on rough roads, as the countryside turns to mud and rising rivers make some routes impassable.

The rain never stops completely in some parts of the country. Be prepared for some precipitation year-round along the Caribbean coast, in the western highlands, and on the islands of Bocas del Toro.

There are many different theories about the best time to dive and snorkel in Panama. Some argue the rainy season is ideal. In the dry season, strong winds stir up the ocean and bring sediment from the bottom, spoiling visibility. This is much less of a problem in the rainy season, and a light rain can actually help calm the waters. However, if you’re diving in an area where many rivers empty into the sea, runoff following a rain can also wreck visibility. Late February–March is usually considered the best time to visit the islands of Kuna Yala. Bocas del Toro has its own odd microclimates: September–October and February–March are the driest times.

Temperatures in Panama don’t change much during the year. In the lowlands, expect a high of about 32&Mac251;C (90&Mac251;F) in the day down to 21&Mac251;C (70&Mac251;F) in the evening. It never gets cold in the lowlands, and the dry-season breezes in the evening are pleasant. It gets considerably cooler in the highlands. Panama can be quite humid year-round, but especially so in the rainy season.

Panama’s biggest holiday is Carnaval, held each year in the four days leading up to Ash Wednesday. The country comes to a complete halt during those days. This may appeal to those into massive parties, but hotels in the Carnaval hot spots book up months ahead of time, and plane reservations can be hard to come by. November is filled with fiestas patrias (national-independence holidays).

WHAT TO TAKE

Most parts of Panama are hot and humid year-round. Bring lots of thin cotton or breathable, moisture-wicking synthetic clothing. Be sure your travel wardrobe is not all shorts and skimpy tops, though; dress in Panama is conservative. Bring at least one semiformal outfit for restaurants, bars, or clubs in the cities.

Life is easier for those who travel light, especially if travel plans call for domestic flights, where there’s a severe weight restriction on luggage. Launderettes aren’t hard to come by once clean clothes are exhausted. But consider bringing a bunch of T-shirts, as many people on the move are more comfortable if they can change their sweaty tops two or even three times a day.

Those planning to do much hiking should bring along a waterproof anorak or rain poncho, preferably of breathable fabric. Bring lots of plastic bags for stashing gear to protect it from the elements. Consider taking along a small umbrella for use in town, or just do what the locals do—wait for the rain to stop.

It can cool off significantly in some regions of Panama, and air-conditioning can raise goose bumps in the lowland cities. Even parts of the Darién can get fairly chilly at night, and temperatures in the western highlands sometimes approach freezing. Bring some warm clothes. A light sweater or fleece along with a waterproof windbreaker or parka is a useful combination. If you think you’ll spend much time island-hopping, consider bringing a life jacket. These are often not standard equipment.

Consider bringing along a bedroll or light sleeping bag even if you’re not planning on doing serious camping. It can come in handy if you have to spend a night in a place without decent linens. And don’t forget the binoculars.