LIMA

Peru’s capital has been avoided by travelers in the past because of its gray weather, grimy downtown, and chaotic feel. But the country’s capital, christened City of the Kings when Francisco Pizarro founded it in 1535, is making a roaring comeback. Upscale restaurants and cafés have cropped up alongside the renovated Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded by the country’s most important colonial Catedral and the palaces of the president and archbishop. The historic center is packed with 16th- and 17th-century marvels, including immaculately restored homes such as the Casa de Aliaga and the Palacio Torre Tagle. There are unique things to see at all of the dozen colonial churches in Lima, including the catacombs of San Francisco and the lavishly decorated facade of San Pedro. The outlying districts of Miraflores and San Isidro offer a range of lodging, bars, and a chance to sample the full spectrum of Peruvian cuisine. Bohemian Barranco, tucked on the edge of Lima’s crescent-shaped bay, is the nightlife district and favored backpacker’s den. The country’s best museums are also here, including the Museo Larco and Museo de la Nación.

Catedral: After two decades of turbulence, the center of Lima is roaring back, and at the center of it all is a refurbished main square and the 16th-century cathedral, with elegantly carved choir stalls and a huge painting gallery. (read more)

Casa de Aliaga: This colonial mansion in the heart of Lima’s old town is in pristine condition and offers a fascinating glimpse into domestic life during the opulent days of the viceroyalty. (read more)

San Francisco: This 16th-century convent has a brightly decorated patio and painting gallery upstairs, and labyrinthian catacombs downstairs that served for centuries as Lima’s general cemetery. (read more)

Museo Larco: With a huge collection of gold, textiles, and more than 40,000 ceramics, this museum offers a complete survey of all of Peru’s archaeological treasures. (read more)

Museo Nacional de Arqueología: The best way to wrap your mind around Peru’s complex succession of ancient cultures is by visiting this compact and concise museum that is a 15 minutes’ walk from the Museo Larco. (read more)