Salt Island

Before refrigeration, islanders relied on salt to preserve meat. Many islands in the Virgins have salt ponds where crystal salt was collected, but no island had a larger or more productive pond than Salt Island, a small T-shaped island about five miles from Tortola. For centuries the small settlement on Salt Island thrived on the island’s salt industry.

Salt is harvested in the early spring, at the end of the dry season. Traditionally, the Salt Island harvest was a time of great festivity. Residents from nearby islands would travel there to watch as a government agent supervised the “breaking of the pond” and lent a hand. After it was harvested from the pond, the salt was dried in a special salt house. Up to 1,000 pounds of salt were harvested annually from Salt Island. Today, islanders still harvest salt, but on a much smaller scale. Most of it is finely ground and mixed with local seasonings to make “seasoning salt” for fish and meat.

Few, if any, people still live on Salt Island year-round, although some Salt Islanders who live on Tortola come back regularly. The settlement along the north coast is a cluster of simple homes, set amid coconut palms. There are no restaurants, snack bars, or stores, and no electricity or public water. In fact, this is the best place to glimpse life as it was throughout the Virgin Islands before tourism and development changed them so dramatically.

There is no ferry service to Salt Island, so if you want to come you will have to sail yourself. Strangely, even though Salt Island is unique among the BVI’s outlying cays, it is off the radar of most visitors and likewise is not featured on any regular day-sail itineraries. This is all the more reason to go.

Sailors can anchor at Salt Island Bay or moor at Lee Bay. Both are exposed, however, and are considered day-use only. When you go ashore, look around the settlement for signs of life. If someone happens to be home, be sure to extend them the courtesy of a greeting and explanation of what you intend to do. They may even agree to show you around. Hiking trails circle the pond, or you can trek over to South Bay in the west or The Sound in the east. Don’t disturb the salt pond or take any salt unless you have permission.