Virgin Gorda

Virgin Gorda, or the Fat Virgin as Columbus saw it, is the third largest island in the British Virgins and the second most populated. Lying northeast of Tortola, Virgin Gorda is a study in contrasts. The southwestern peninsula is a flat, dry landscape colored by vivid bougainvillea and bright century plants. Some of the best beaches in the region are found here, plus the Baths National Park, where pools of turquoise water invite exploration.

The northern end of Virgin Gorda is mountainous and lush—the single paved road winds steeply through wild forest, along Gorda Peak National Park, and down to the villages of Gun Creek and North Sound, which cling to the hillside overlooking one of the best harbors in the Virgin Islands. Sir Francis Drake once used North Sound as a staging area for a 1595 attack on Puerto Rico, but today it is noted most as a magnet for sailing and water sports enthusiasts.

Just about 3,000 people call Virgin Gorda home, and they are a particularly welcoming bunch. At Spanish Town, the main settlement in the south, life revolves around the marina, where some of the most popular restaurants and shops are found. The side streets are lined with neat West Indian–style homes, many fronted by colorful gardens. Others are built imaginatively around the giant granite boulders of the area. Goats and sheep wander through the village, causing occasional traffic jams.

Often, visitors come to Virgin Gorda for the Baths—its genuinely remarkable world-famous beach—but stay for the special feeling of contentment they find here; people just seem happier on Virgin Gorda. Maybe it’s the slow pace of life, the small-town feel, or the pride islanders have in their home. Whatever the secret, visitors will notice that it is nearly impossible to keep up a bad mood for very long on Virgin Gorda.

It is no surprise, then, that Virgin Gorda is home to some of the most exclusive resorts in the British Virgin Islands. Little Dix Bay, opened by Laurance Rockefeller in 1964, still wins awards for its five-star service and luxury, while the Bitter End at North Sound is an unrivaled choice for water sports lovers. There are a handful of more modest accommodations, but there are no campgrounds; by and large, Virgin Gorda is not a destination for budget travelers. Neither is it a place for nightlife, shopping, or, to any great extent, exceptional dining. Instead, Virgin Gorda’s main draw is its natural beauty, friendly people, and tranquility. In fact, there are few islands that so perfectly blend comfortable, high-quality accommodation with an unspoiled natural environment.

Spanish Town: Neat and colorful, Spanish Town is one of the oldest settlements in the Virgin Islands. Share the road with goats and sheep. (read more)

Coppermine National Park: A crumbling stone chimney breaks through the bright blue sky at Coppermine Point, a windswept headland. Watch the waves crash below and the birds fly overhead. (read more)

The Baths: Huge granite boulders create an endless array of pools and grottos perfect for exploration at the British Virgin Islands’ most famous sight. (read more)

Spring Bay National Park: The “other” Baths, this beach maintains its serenity most days, making it a venue popular with locals and ideal for relaxation. (read more)

The Dog Islands: Protected by the National Parks Trust, this cluster of islands near Virgin Gorda has pristine reefs for snorkeling. (read more)

North Sound: Called by some a saltwater lake, this broad bay is protected from rough seas and ideal for sailing. Secluded beaches and friendly beach bars await exploration. (read more)