Planning Your Trip

Don’t make the mistake of planning your trip to the Virgin Islands down to the last day, let alone hour. The best trips are somewhat uncharted—you are, after all, in the islands. For most visitors it is not about squeezing more things into your day, but taking things out. Life here is best when you keep things simple; complexity often breeds confusion, disappointment, and frustration.

Small islands, by their nature, pose a unique challenge to visitors. There are no road trips, for example. There are, however, boats, and these are the best way to get around if you want to see all, or even some, of the Virgin Islands on one trip. If length and breadth are your concerns, forget about ferries (slow, limited and expensive), car rentals (expensive), and planes (very expensive). Charter a boat and away you go.

Don’t underestimate the pleasure of looking at the same view every day of your vacation, either. No one said you had to travel hither and yon to experience the Virgin Islands. You can count the grains of sand on the beach in front of your hotel too, if you’d rather. Muster up the energy for a few day trips around the island of your choice, and you’ll come home with a suntan, some stories, and a few less worries.

There is, of course, a middle ground. Choose a home base (or two), and pick a few other islands that strike your fancy for day trips. Just don’t forget to temper the exploration with relaxation. Find the right balance for you, and you’ll be—as the islanders say—all right.

The Virgin Islands are not the place to come if you’re looking for exciting nightlife, shopping, modern cities, or world-class museums. Also, leave your impatience at home. The pace of life here is slow, and the attractions are the great beaches, excellent sailing waters, and hundreds of snorkel and dive sites. Islands including St. John, St. Croix, and Tortola have a wide offering of other outdoor pursuits: hiking, kayaking, biking, birding, windsurfing, and surfing among them. Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas and the entire island of St. Croix are rich in history, and all the islands have unique bars and restaurants—some elegant, some ramshackle, and lots in between. Peace and quiet are the major attractions of the remote out islands of the British Virgins.

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WHEN TO GO

Life in the Virgin Islands follows a distinct rhythm defined by the travel patterns of those who visit the region. Winter (November–March) is the “high” season, when North Americans and Europeans come to escape cold weather back home. This coincides with the dry season in the islands, and the season of the best sailing winds and coolest, most comfortable temperatures. It is also when you will find the greatest variety of things to do and places to eat and stay; many establishments shut down and limit hours during the slow season.
During the summer (May–September) travelers will find bargains. Most hotels offer discounts of up to 40 percent during summer, and airfare tends to be less then too. It is hotter, however, and the winds tend to die down for sailing. Otherwise, there is little difference. Do be aware of the hurricane season (June–November), and be sure to buy trip insurance if there’s chance you could be blown off course by a storm or storm warning.

The so-called “shoulder seasons” between summer and winter may be the best time of all to visit the islands. March and October typically enjoy pleasant weather (not too hot), lower prices, and fewer tourists (you’ll have the beaches to yourself). Some hotels offer discounts, too, although not as deep as those in summer.

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WHAT TO TAKE

Beginning in 2007, all Americans need a passport to return to the United States from the British Virgin Islands and other Caribbean countries (but not the U.S. Virgin Islands). While a passport is not necessary for a visit to the U.S. Virgin Islands, some form of government-issued ID is. It is always a good idea to pack not only your passport, but also a photocopy of it. Also bring evidence of your hotel reservations and return passage home.

Light, loose-fitting clothes are best; pack a few long-sleeved shirts and light pants for the evenings, especially in the winter. Some elegant restaurants have dress codes that require slacks and button-up shirts for men, and dresses for women. You will probably sweat a lot during the days, so plan on at least a few extra changes of clothes. Launderettes are easy to find, but if you’re going to do a lot of moving around consider bringing clothes you can wash in the bathroom sink.

Virgin Islanders tend to dress neatly. If you are going to attend a business function you will need smart office clothing: a tie for men and a suit for women. Around town, you will want to look presentable, although casual is fine. Short-shorts and skimpy tank tops are best saved for the beach. After dark, you may wish to dress up, especially if you are going to soak up whatever nightlife there is on your island. Leave your best jewels at home; there is no need for them here, and you are just inviting trouble.

If you plan to do a lot of swimming, snorkeling, or scuba diving, bring two bathing suits; there is nothing worse than putting on a wet suit because you forgot to hang it up to dry the night before. Water booties, aqua shoes, or similarly water-happy sandals are handy, too. Fast-drying shorts that you can get wet comfortably are also very useful, especially if you’re going to be entering and exiting dinghies and small boats. Bring a comfortable pair of shoes you can wear on the streets of historic Charlotte Amalie or the hiking trails of St. John. You will probably find that a pair of sandals or flip-flops is indispensable. Scuba divers and surfers do not need to bring their own gear; there is plenty available for rent around the islands. If you’re going to be camping, pack a raincoat or poncho.

Be sure to prepare for the sun: bring sunscreen, sunglasses, a wide-brimmed hat and lip balm (sunburned lips really hurt). A refillable water bottle is especially handy, so you don’t always have to stop for water. If you’re going to do hiking, a CamelBak-type water jug is best. If you want to take photos, bring extra film to avoid paying high island prices. If you are interested in birds, plants, or marinelife, bring an identification manual with you.

The beach is a great place to catch up on your reading, so don’t forget a few books. You can always trade them in at book swaps around the islands when you’re finished.