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DISCOVER NORTHERN CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY: Destination content © Philip Goldsmith, used from Moon Handbooks Northern California Wine Country, 1st edition. |
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The mind-boggling range of activities, wines, scenery, and foods that makes this such a diverse part of the world also ensures that seeing and doing the Wine Country will mean different things to different people. The key to visiting the region is planning. In the hedonistic Wine Country, it’s hard not to have fun whatever you do, but it can be made all the more enjoyable if you come up with a planany planhowever rudimentary, otherwise it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. Often it’s more fun to let tasting room staff, hotel concierges, or fellow travelers help flesh it out with local knowledge and experiences. It needn’t be a detailed or rigid schedule. A crucial part of Wine Country lifestyle is relaxation and indulgence, neither of which should be worked at too hard. If you try to visit too many wineries, the day will seem a blur with few lasting memories except the frustration caused when heavy traffic wrecks an over-optimistic schedule. Take note of how long tours last or how many wines there are to taste, and allow plenty of time to linger and chat with the winemaker or tasting room staff. Mix big wineries and small wineries to experience the full spectrum of the wine-making world, or focus on a particular style of wine. And pepper any visit with healthy doses of non-wine-related activities, such as hiking or cooking classes, to keep in touch with all of the many aspects of the Wine Country that make its lifestyle unique. When you finally open that expensive bottle of Napa cabernet you’ll have some far more interesting dinner table anecdotes to tell. WHEN TO GO Summer and fall are the most popular seasons to visit, and for perfectly good reasons. This is when the weather is at its best and the wineries are at their most active, laying out lavish food and wine events, preparing for harvest, and releasing new vintages. The problem is, everyone seems to be here at this time of year. Hotel prices jump, if you can get a room, and restaurant reservations can be hard to come by. Weekends can be particularly bad as local day-trippers from San Francisco and other Bay Area cities swell the already bulging tourist traffic, potentially turning a weekend getaway into a weekend of purgatory. Even visiting midweek at this time of year can make a huge difference. St. Helena, Healdsburg, and Sonoma can feel positively deserted on an August or September weekday. Experiences will also vary depending on location. The Napa Valley is the most popular part of Wine Country by far, and St. Helena is best avoided on summer weekends. The Santa Cruz Mountains and Dry Creek Valley are often much quieter. Consider visiting at another time of year altogether for a more fulfilling experience. Almost every season in Wine Country has something going for it, if not the weather. After October, things quiet down a little bit, hotel rates drop, and the weather can still be fine. Vineyards turn glorious hues of red and gold. It’s finally cool enough to drive through the valley vineyards with the air conditioning off, yet still warm enough to have the windows down and smell the aromatic, dusty fall air. DecemberApril is the wettest period, and although there can still be stretches of warm, sunny weather, gray and foreboding clouds are more common. Wineries can also be blissfully quiet during the winter, giving you plenty of one-on-one time with tasting room staff, who are usually more than happy to spend an hour talking about their wines and maybe slip a few free pours under the table. This is also a perfect time of year to try port or other powerful, warming red wines that might otherwise induce instant headaches on a hot summer day. In May and June the rainy season comes to an end, the weather warms up, and the valley and mountains are a fresh, vivid green. Although spring is becoming a more popular time to visit parts of the Wine Country, it’s still possible to sneak in ahead of the worst summer crowds. WHAT TO TAKE The Wine Country is generally a rather civilized place to visit, but nature likes to keep everyone guessing. NovemberMay, be sure to pack an umbrella and plenty of wet-weather gear, particularly if you plan any outdoor activities. Though wet, winter is a great temperature equalizer throughout the region. Almost every part of Wine Country, from the coast to the heart of the Alexander Valley, will be about the same temperatureusually 5565°F during the day. Summer is a different story. The coast tends to be cool JuneOctober while the inland valleys are hot, with significant temperature differences often experienced in just a half-hour drive. The key to staying comfortable in such conditions is to bring plenty of layers of clothing that can be shed during the drive from the cool coast to the cauldron of Calistoga. Be prepared to put some back on in the evening, as temperatures in many places can drop sharply after dark. The Russian River Valley, Carneros, and Santa Cruz Mountains tend to have variable summer weather. It might be hot and sunny, windy and partly sunny, or windy and foggy, or sometimes all three in one day. Farther inland, the summer sun shines virtually every day and it can get extremely hot, so be well prepared with sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. Remember to drink plenty of bottled water to ward off dehydration from drinking wine or from any strenuous exercise like hiking. Whatever the time of year, this is essentially an outdoorsy, agricultural area, so casual clothing and good walking shoes are recommended for tramping up to picnic spots or through vineyards on tours. Very few restaurants require anything more than smart-casual attire, so unless you’re planning to eat at the ones that do it’s fine to leave heels and ties behind. |
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