Food

For the most part, Rosario [1]’s cuisine lags behind the city’s other cultural resources. Rosario a la Carta (www.rosarioalacarta.com.ar [2]) is a good general information site on local restaurants.

The bookstore El Ateneo (Córdoba 1473, tel. 0341/425-9306) has an outstanding café for sandwiches and desserts, but it closes early, around 9 p.m. Rincón Vegetariano (Mitre 720, tel. 0341/411-0833) is a longstanding vegetarian favorite.

La Chernia, El Chucho y la Cholga (Mendoza and Rosas, tel. 0341/421-2253) specializes in seafood, but their selection of river fish is limited. Some sauces are a little heavy, but it’s busy even on Mondays and has fine service. Most entrées are in the US$8–12 range.

Highly regarded Puerto Gaboto (Pellegrini 590, tel. 0341/447-1024) specializes in river fish such as boga, dorado, pacú, and surubí.

At the north end of Avenida Oroño, Davis (Avenida Brigadier López 2550, tel. 0341/435-7142), is the restaurant-bar of the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo [3], and its upstairs is a lively night spot on weekends.

At Bajada España (España and Riberas del Río, tel. 0341/449-6801), container ships float by so close that it almost seems possible to leap aboard, but those who stay seated will be rewarded with grilled river fish—the half-portion is big enough for two hungry diners—at modest prices. At the north end of Avenida España, cross the road and look for the inconspicuous elevator, beyond the former train station, that drops to the riverside location.

Themed after the life of outlaw Juan Moreira, Te Amaré Vicenta (Roca 1677, tel. 0341/411-2505, www.teamarevicenta.com [4]) is a parrilla whose attentive waiters, in subdued gaucho garb, deliver fine grilled meats. There are also some more complex plates, such as the lomo Pachamama, served with a sauce of white wine and herbs and accompanied by a risotto in a light crust and country fried potatoes. Nearby La Estancia (Avenida Pellegrini 1510, tel. 0341/449-8052) also has its adherents.

Part of the Puerto España complex in the old Rosario Central railroad station, Don Ferro (España and Río Paraná, tel. 0341/421-1927) serves beef and more beef, but also river fish and more complex dishes such as stuffed Patagonian lamb (US$12) with grilled potatoes. The service is assiduous, and the river views memorable.

For a formal meal in attractive surroundings alongside the Estación Fluvial, try Muelle 1 (Avenida de los Inmigrantes 410, tel. 0341/426-3509, www.muelle [5] 1.com.ar). Entrées such as surubí start around US$8–10; service is highly professional.

Adjacent to its eponymous cinema, the restored Bar El Cairo (Santa Fe 1102, tel. 0341/449-0714, www.barelcairo.com [6], US$10–20) is a place for drinks but also has a gourmet menu at dinnertime. A favorite with the late cartoonist Roberto Fontanarrosa, with cavernous brick ceilings, it showcases live music and gets many other figures from the Argentine sports and entertainment world.

Rosario [1]’s ice cream is not Argentina’s finest, but Bajo Cero (Santa Fe and Roca, tel. 0341/425-1538) is a respectable choice. Lido (Blvd. Oroño 117, tel. 0341/440-0029) is also reliable.