Food

Gaiman [1] may be picturesque, but it’s pointless to come here without indulging yourself on cakes, jams, scones, pies, and a bottomless teapot. Since tea starts around 2:30–3 p.m., either skip lunch or go later and then skip dinner; for about US$10 pp, it’s a de facto all-you-can-eat. When tour buses are parked outside, slow service is almost certain.

Gaiman’s oldest teahouse is Plas y Coed (Yrigoyen 320, tel. 02965/49-1133, www.plasycoed.com.ar [2]), which wins points for exceptional sweets and personalized service. Ivy-covered Ty Nain (Hipólito Yrigoyen 283, tel. 02965/49-1126) is the most stylish, but Ty Gwyn (9 de Julio 111, tel. 02965/49-1009, www.tygwyn.com.ar [3]) is also appealing.

The newest teahouse, Ty Cymraeg (Mathews 74, tel. 02965/49-1010, www.gaimantea.com [4]) blends a traditional style but lacks the historical patina of, say, Plas y Coed; still, its scones, grape jam, and lemon pie are outstanding.

Across the river, reached by a roundabout route over the bridge at the south end of J. C. Evans, Ty Caerdydd (tel. 02965/49-1053) is an enormous teahouse set among its own irrigated fields, which produce fresh fruits and berries for its own products, and elaborate flower gardens. Lady Diana, as Princess of Wales, was once a celebrity guest.

Overnighters can’t gorge themselves on Welsh teas every day. Other restaurants include Pizzería Gustos (Avenida Eugenio Tello 156, tel. 02965/49-1453, lunch and dinner daily) and the more ambitious El Angel (Rivadavia 241, tel. 02965/49-1460, reservations essential), which keeps limited days and hours.