Nightlife

Most of Ensenada [1]’s evening entertainment takes place along Avenida López Mateos and Boulevard Costero between Calle Sanginés and Avenida Macheros. Some of the hotels and bars host live music, and there are a few discos, but it’s nothing compared to what you’ll find in Tijuana [2]. Many places have closed in recent years due to the drop in tourism.

Ensenada’s best-known bar has been serving patrons since 1892. Opened by German immigrant Johan Hussong, Hussong’s Cantina (Ruiz 113, tel. 646/178-3210, www.cantinahussongs.com [3], 10 A.M.–1 A.M. daily) has been a gathering place for expats and locals ever since, and many veteran Baja travelers kick off each road trip down the peninsula with a Tecate, Bohemia, or Dos Equis (XX) beer here. Late afternoon is the best time to beat the rowdy crowds. Weekly specials include two-for-one beers on Tuesdays, two-for-one micheladas on Thursdays, and two-for-one margaritas on Saturdays.

Two-story Papas and Beer (Ruiz and López Mateos, tel. 646/174-0145, www.papasandbeer.com [4], noon–3 A.M. daily), across the street, has less character but is also a little mellower.

A few wine bar/restaurants offer an appealing alternative to the usual bar scene. Wine comes first at La Contra (Moctezuma 623 at Calle 6, tel. 646/178-8213, www.lacontravinos.com [5], mains US$7–15) which represents most of the best local labels and offers a menu of fresh salads, pizzas, and pasta.

La Casa del Arte (Moctezuma 479 btw Calles 4/5, tel. 646/175-7035, www.lacasadelarte.com.mx [6], 2 P.M.–midnight Mon.–Sat.) features jazz on Fridays starting at 8 P.M. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating and a broad menu ranging from Serrano ham to spaghetti and meatballs and rib-eye steak.